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Messages - JohnW

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 9
1
Sell and Swap / Wanted: Macneil OG pivotal post
« on: November 17, 2019, 11:24:46 AM »
Looking for one at least long enough to run a fist worth of seat post. You know that old tapered post that couldn't be run slammed.

2
The Lounge / Re: Post your Car/Truck/Motor Vehicle V2.0
« on: June 16, 2019, 08:37:32 PM »

1988 Volvo 740 n/a 2.3


1986 El Camino with a 305 my dad left me when he passed away a couple years ago. I just drove it from New Hampshire to Texas and back a couple months ago...at 14mpg. The one in the back doing a burnout, I got a trophy for that haha


I've now had my 1980 Ford Pinto for 8 years and it's turbo 2.3 EFI swapped.


Then of course the 93 Corolla Death Wagon which can carry 5 people and 5 bikes...

3
The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey clutch v2 opinions
« on: February 12, 2019, 08:26:28 PM »
and even those broke all the time and required a decent amount of work to extract the outside races.
Headset star nut with the prongs bent a bit. You can also order a slightly smaller one for office furniture legs, since I used the headset one for 6902s. Hammer it in, flip the driver over, hammer the bearing race out, then flip that over in a vice and hammer the star nut out to reuse.

4
The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey clutch v2 opinions
« on: February 12, 2019, 08:23:17 PM »
I had a v1 Clutch (well Sunday Cyclone since it was way cheaper, just without external slack adjustment) for a year and a half. Never had any issues or had to do any maintenance during that whole time. Ended up developing a little side to side play in the wheel. Asked Odyssey if I was right in my assumption that it needed a new non-drive shell bearing. They suggested a couple fixes and gave me a list of improvements they made on the v2 hub and offered to sell me one at a very good discount. I took them up on that and have been running it for 6 months without a single issue. Replaced my 10 year old Marmoset with a new G-Sport Simian to match the polished Clutch v2 I bought (and get better guards than the trashed Knight and BSD ones I had for the Marmoset).

Been running coasters for 10 years down and I'm super impressed with both versions of the Clutch. Saw everyone else blow up KHE, Federal, and Alienation coasters. I ran a Poverty 10t coaster for a few years before I sheared the driver in half. Replaced it with an Odyssey Reloader and out of the box I had to make custom springs to replace the stock butterfly springs. Put in the thrust bearing from the Poverty. Both of those I had to rip apart for maintenance once a month. Clutch would start sticking and not disengaging smoothly, and the driver bearings blew up after 5-6 weeks. Also had periodic issues with the resistance mechanisms resulting in slipping.

The Cyclone and the Clutch v2 have never once slipped on me, stuck, or blew a bearing up. It's a game changer not having to work on a freecoaster more often than a cassette. The v1 didn't have quite enough slack so I bought the non-adjustable max slack spacer and it was perfect. The v2 with the adjustable spacer had just a hair less slack than the v1 with the max slack spacer, and ended up being the perfect amount of slack. About the same amount of slack as my modded Reloader had. Almost never engages by accident, and there's still the option of more slack if 3/16" of a crank isn't enough for you with 28-9. Plus the dual 14mm bolts into a 20mm female axle means I no longer have to worry about damaging an axle. Both the Poverty and Reloader were discontinued when I had them, I had previously bent axles on 14mm male cassette hubs, and replacement axles were not available for my coasters. Now I don't have to worry about peg chinks or a drive side peg turning my rear hub into a paperweight.

I also ride more often now than I ever used to with the older hubs. I even go on 20-30 mile road bike rides with a freecoaster on a 20"...

5
The Bike Shop / Re: lights for night riding
« on: January 07, 2019, 07:16:59 PM »
you did

6
The Bike Shop / Re: lights for night riding
« on: December 27, 2018, 11:15:45 PM »
If I want to know more about this. What should I do Please tell me.
Jam a flashlight up your ass and pretend you're a lightning bug.

7
The Lounge / Re: Adam22
« on: November 22, 2018, 03:48:08 PM »
I remember telling him he was a cunt on here like a decade ago. He's only proven himself to be an even bigger piece of shit since then

8
The Bike Shop / Re: tire pressure question
« on: November 03, 2018, 11:19:35 PM »
I haven't run over 90 since I was a teenager since my wrists can't handle it, but I won't run less than 70-80. Put 80 in plenty of 65psi tires without ever having an issue. Tires are always slightly underrated.

Like how I run 55-60PSI in car tires on the back of my drift car, when car tires are only rated to 44psi normally. Just gotta make sure you have the high pressure valve stems.

9
The Bike Shop / Re: lights for night riding
« on: November 03, 2018, 11:13:00 PM »
Here's the floodlight, now up to $27.99 which ain't bad at all: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E6M23C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had it since mid November last year according to my purchase history and it still kicks ass.

Bike lights have gone from $9.99 to $12.99 but still worth it. Only had them for 5 months I guess but they're still working after like 500 bails. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749HZPBL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10
The Bike Shop / Re: lights for night riding
« on: November 03, 2018, 11:08:02 PM »
I bought a $27 rechargeable stand mounted floodlight off Amazon that's amazing. Battery lasts for hours, I've used it for 4-5 hours at a time and not managed to kill it. Comes on a little tiny stand that's flimsy and comes loose, but if you just bend it back and tighten the thumbscrews every time you use it it's fine. Could rig up a bracket to mount it on an old camera tripod from a thrift store easily.

Also I bought the cheapest pair of rechargeable bike lights on Amazon with Micro USB connectors for like $9.99 and have had them for a fucking year now. Usually lasts 2 rides (15 miles average each) before they start to die. Run the front one on half brightness normally.

11
gonna]

12
Anyone interested in trading something with similar specs but a shorter chainstay for this Fit Inman v1? 21" top tube and I'll only trade for 21s. This is 74.5 HT, 14.25" slammed CS, 11.7" BB, 8.8" standover, 71 ST, removable brake mounts. It's been stripped and spray painted, one small ding on the DT and some scratches on the chainstay but nothing major. I want something with similar specs with a 13.75" slammed chainstay. Must have seatstay brake mounts, don't need to be removable. Would be interested in frames with 3/8" or 14mm dropouts. Located in New Hampshire but can ship

13
The Bike Shop / Re: MID BB width
« on: August 06, 2018, 10:03:50 PM »
I've seen varying widths over the years, I think they went wider for more tire clearance now that 2.45 tires exist. If it's too long you can always add more spacers, as long as that doesn't push the pedals out too far.

G why did all the Q-factors get so wide???

14
The Bike Shop / Re: old man knees and crank arm length
« on: June 03, 2018, 08:44:28 PM »
I didn't feel much difference dropping from 180 to 175 years back, nor did I feel much now dropping from 175 to 170. Just changed it for foot clearance. I used to clip my pedal on the ground coming out of fakies way back when I ran 180s and had a cassette. Stopped happening with 175s, and this time I dropped a size for peg clearance. I really don't think it would be enough of a change to help your knees any, perhaps change sprocket size instead? I notice way more difference changing the sprocket by 2 teeth than cranks by 5mm.

15
The Bike Shop / Re: Gsport uniguard
« on: June 03, 2018, 08:40:43 PM »
Mine seems great so far. Ran it on non-drive on one bike that has a Hazard V3 with female axle (so no other guard fits) and on the drive side of my Sunday Cyclone. On the Cyclone on my S&M Randy Brown (I'm guessing dropout slots have a slight angle?) it barely rubs the chain. Can hear it when pedaling but it doesn't bind or anything. Been meaning to grind it down a hair but I don't run 4 pegs often so I haven't gotten around to it.

I also drilled the hole for the anti spin pin 1mm larger and removed it in favor of screwing the Odyssey J-Peg Light anti spin pin through the guard into the peg. Now neither of them can spin.

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