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Messages - ediotism

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91
The Bike Shop / Re: I Need Help With Dialing In My Rear Brake - Gyro
« on: April 01, 2015, 12:47:29 PM »
to be honest, brake cables, inner wires and brake springs all age with time. with 15 years of mostly idling around, one would think new cables and new brake pads are well justified.

and even with new cables, TAKE OUT THE INNER WIRE and hold it by the nipple so it dangles down, then start dripping a teflon lube (e.g. Triflow, GT-85, etc NOT WD-40!!) on the nipple and let it run down the inner wire till it drips. you'd be surprised how much lube the wire can soak up between all its little strands. now take the outer cable and drip lube thru it till it comes out the other end. you can now put your inner wire back into the cable.

as for brake pads, odyssey's make some really nice pads that require minimal adjustment/set up experience, look them up!

92
The Bike Shop / Re: breaking hs bearings - new frame?
« on: April 01, 2015, 12:40:47 PM »
maybe a few clarifying questions can help:

1. these metal shavings that you see, its from the races because the whole thing has fallen into pieces whenever you take out the fork? the few times that it happened, i assume they looked like they failed in a similar fashion? this itself points to the races not sitting flush on a perfectly flat surface. if the surface that the race sits on is "wobbly" or crooked, all the pressure from riding puts stress on to it. maybe you can check the fork/lower race of headtube surfaces? using a ream and face tool on them may solve the issue.

2. you said the ball bearings are fine, do they have any flat spots on them? look very closely. using bearing balls that're of a lesser quality (less hard, less round etc) shouldn't really destroy your bearing races, but is worth a check over.

3. i'd assume you use the usual bearings where there're about 8 balls held in equal spacing with a crown? is it distorted in any way when you take it out? damaged? it may shred some light on the issue. personally i've never had a headset as smooth as a FSA unsealed pig with looseball bearings (i.e. without crown, just more balls) that Sheepdog taught us to do wayyyyyy back in the day. not even a properly installed chris king non-integrated/internal.

4. a headset that's too loose usually results in flaring, not race damage. as for too tight, race damage as you described is possible but very unlikely, since it'd have to be noticiably over-tightened for that to happen. just for information sharing tho, sometimes a headset becomes tighter/looser than how you set it with the compression bolt when you tighten the stem's pinch bolts, due to minor distortion in things. you can test how self-tightening your particular set up is by only tightening the compression bolt to where the wobble is just gone, then check the resistance in turning the bars. you then tighten the stem pinch bolts and compare how much the resistance has increased. this may give you a better idea of how much preloading you need in your compression bolt.

5. how often does this happen? if the race is shattered everytime you loosen the forks, how often do you do that? every 2 weeks? 2 months?

93
The Lounge / Re: Who is the most universally hot chick?
« on: April 01, 2015, 12:17:25 PM »
"universally hot" implies objective standards


94
The Lounge / Re: Sheepdog still out there
« on: March 16, 2015, 08:59:44 AM »
losing user names/password isn't a big deal to be honest, i just adjusted mine and it's all good. I find it a little strange that forums allow a single letter username (G), it was difficult to follow (i.e. stalk) some previous posts using teh search bar. but no big deal.


good to know Sheep's still kicking ass, wouldn't it have been in your interest to post on BG and your other forums when you had the kickstarter campaign going tho?

95
The Bike Shop / Re: this skid stop kick out thingys
« on: March 08, 2015, 08:57:17 AM »
they put nowhere near as much stress on your wheel/spokes than any awkward 180s. sometimes gliding out a long one feels amazing too.

96
The Bike Shop / Re: odyssey keychain
« on: March 06, 2015, 02:55:04 AM »
Mine is dialed. Been running it since the summer with a 23/9 and use a ton of pedal pressure on my freecoaster. Not a peep.

against pedal pressure, the clutch in your coaster is probably the weakest link in the chain, so to speak

97
The Bike Shop / Re: 22 the front and 20 back?
« on: March 06, 2015, 02:53:23 AM »
22 front 20 back looks fun as fuck for trails. good thing being that once the front wheel is off the ground, the bike's already at a geometry you're quite used to. i reckon it'll only take 20minutes to get used to it... well, for me anyway since i don't have that many tricks

98
the two bolts that are there have the nuts facing down so the allen key bolt head is on the top and still usable. also, having the nuts there means you have to grind them down with the plastic, which slows down the wear on the pedal (cos steel takes ages to grind down).

that's very nice. if i recall correctly, the pedals come with 21mm and 18mm long bolts. i bought some 15mm ones so the setup is 18 and 15mm's, only on one side.

you can probably get some at 12mm or so, and when you swap to a new pedal half you can pop those in for slowing down grind wear and not have to deal with bolts that stick out the grind side. or maybe you already do that.

99
The Lounge / Re: some dude built a cargo bike
« on: February 27, 2015, 01:28:35 PM »
Where?

episode 6, i just clicked thru from the original link and looked for related vids. there's newer ones too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0wMIF6EPfY

100
The Lounge / Re: some dude built a cargo bike
« on: February 24, 2015, 04:05:46 AM »
ridiculous.

if you could be bothered to read through that, you'll probably appreciate this (cars and fabrication-related)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hCPODjJO7s

This needs a warning. That:-

1. There is hours of that stuff. and
2. It isnt finished yet...

Really enjoyed watching it, but now I need to see it finished...

:)
G.

a couple of new episodes are up. this thing is madness! seems like none of the original car is left.

101
The Bike Shop / Re: New glands
« on: February 24, 2015, 03:40:48 AM »
Seriously, why use a strap on plastic guard with the toughest hubs? they're pretty much the first hubs deigned around serious freestyle bmx abuse with huge 17-20mm axles with slip on collars, it only makes sense to make the collars replaceable with a nice slip on guard..

The plastic makes sense because you're avoiding a "rock-hit-rock" approach to protection. when you attach the guard onto the spokes, it spins WITH the wheel. So when you smack your bike into a grind, the plastic just cushions the sharp edge of the obstacle from spiking into the spokes while the impact is spread to most/all the spokes (since the guard leans onto all of them). the spinning of the wheel helps preventing obstacles from constantly hitting one specific spot on your guard every grind, and being able to spin also reduces grind friction.

as for making it into a slip on collar, that'd actually make it work on a COMPLETELY different principle:
you'll never be able to make one guard that fits on every wheel in a way that the guard rests on the spokes evenly and snugly, let alone have it spin with the wheel. this means the guard has to have a lot more rigidity to it to withstand impact and stop itself bending into the spokes. this is now back to a rock-hit-rock approach, which almost seems primitive in this day and age given how much BMX engineerers have learnt over the years.

it would also create an immense point of leverage on the axle/bearing race. imagine this slip-on collar rigid guard as the horizontal blue bar in this:

the red arrow is the impact applied to the guard when you smack your bike onto a rail for a grind, whereas the triangle pivot is the contact area that this collar sits on the axle, against the inner bearing race. the resultant force applied to the bike (since its also where the collar rests against the inner race of the bearing) is the green arrow, which is effectively on the same spot as the triangle pivot in this case. the impact from the grind is, therefore, largely amplified  thru leverage. this means you're creating a mechanism that's prone to deformation from a rock hit rock approach and long leverage, and the consequence of when that happens is a possible combination of fucked bearing/bearing race/hub wobble/axle damage.

based on this above i hope you can see that while a collar slip on guard seems like a good idea, it would requie an axle that's hard enough (so maybe steel is needed), a guard itself with very strong rigidity and possibly extra beefiness at the bearing race contact area, all of which are NOT REQUIRED with a guard that strap onto the spokes. it even loses out on how it spreads out impact.

what's really desirable is, therefore, (probably) for the newest gland to be thick enough so that once its attached, it ALMOST fills the gap between the hub flange and the inside of the dropout yet without touching. this way, when you hop onto a grind and land on the guard, it effectively slides it back out to the bottom of the frame dropout and the peg, without putting pressure on the collar whatsoever.

102
The Bike Shop / Re: Yakob/Merged article on tyre size
« on: February 17, 2015, 09:52:04 AM »
^^ thanks for the insight. it's a joy to read some decent posts on bikeguide again.

how come i've never seen you post before??


EDIT: i take that back. i have read a lot of your posts before, just didn't really register your name. were you on bikeguide before teh server wipe?

103
The Bike Shop / Re: Alu drivers - they are finally back!
« on: February 11, 2015, 01:19:58 AM »
it comes with a replacement ratchet ring. what the fuck are you meant to do with that? how do you get the old one out?


you don't have to. the shattered alu driver in your hub will act as a grinder to disintegrate the ratchet ring. open hub up, shake all the bits out, install new ring and get new driver (which is $1 cheaper than the primitive, non-fashionable, heavy steel driver too)

104
Notice how you never see the face of the person? It's so you don't see the tiny little Asian factory worker.


if you're implying child/underage workers, its already been pointed out several times on this forum (or the earlier versions, of which all content has sadly disappeared about 2 years ago) that the human rights record and manufacturing conditions are on par with most western manufacturing hub. taiwan is NOT like vietnam, cambodia, china, thailand, the phillippines, tahiti, etc in that regard at all.

one of the reasons you see everyone going to taiwan for manufacturing is due to the range of capabilities to produce at a reasonable cost, existing machineries and amount of competition. of course, with that, comes low cost manufacturers that focus on cost savings. but that does not mean taiwan isn't capable of producing goods that are on par/superior to those produced in the US or europe, at a similar/cheaper cost.

it is, in fact, a little too generalizing in this day and age to assume the quality of a product basing largely on geographical factors; it is also surprisingly common for producers to take advantage of this, by exploiting this notion that people still have about certain regions = quality products. for example, Prada "made in italy", bruts produced in Champagne, textiles/clothings "produced" in europe. i could go into more details but that'd be too far off tangent to write in this thread.

105
The Bike Shop / Re: sunday stem slippage
« on: February 08, 2015, 09:12:26 AM »
if you decide to try improving by sanding the bar clamp area and the inside of the stem, make sure you use a dry clean towel to really wipe down the areas afterwards, before you put them back together. any bits of metal/paint shavings that you sand off and remain there would act like a lubricant and make your bars slip.

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