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Surly Cross Check Build

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G:

--- Quote from: Admiral Ackbar on May 31, 2015, 09:29:22 PM ---
for fucks sake do not set it up 1x. with some variation of a 50/36 or 48/34ish crank  and an 11-28/12-27/12-30/12-32 cassette you will have not too much trouble riding over almost anything outside of gnarbo mtb singletrack. and you'll be able to maintain some decent speed on the road without having to spin ur little single ring up to 1842098rpm.


--- End quote ---

1 x 10 is not that unreasonable a suggestion.

50/36 to a 12-27 is a 3.125 gear range.
11-36 is a 3.27 gear range (so wider).

Yes all your other cassette suggestions are a little wider but they aren't that far off (and there are wider cassettes available if you know you need more range) personally I have never missed those very top end gears.

Depending on terrain and assuming you pick your sizes sensibly it can work just fine.

I would be more worried about efficiency. 1 x 10 has a fairly big issue with chain angle and I DO worry about the very poor chainline in low gears giving reduced efficiency just when you least want to sacrifice it (slogging up hills). However, having been running 1 x 10 for a while (and coming from a negative bias towards it initially) I have been totally won over.

Losing a shifter, a mech, a cable, clattering chain, dropped chain and just having one lever to shift is so nice that it makes up for any downside.

:)
G.

Admiral Ackbar:
the thing is, riding/exloring/touring on the road (or "all roads" gravel, dirt), you are generally traveling at within a pretty narrow range of speed all things considered. which is where having the cassette with narrower spacing comes in handy. the jumps in gear spacing of 1x drivetrains does not lend its self to the generally steady state style of on road riding very well. unless you're willing to adapt...

it is not such a big deal off road, where i think 1x is fantastic (on city bikes too, if the city is relatively flat) and the larger jumps between gears make sense because you are making a lot more changes in speed and momentum. but on the road i really do not feel it is the best option.

a front mech and associated hardware is very simple to setup and maintain as well. its also extremely good at keeping the chain on the chainring.

Trail-Boss:
I think your spot on.

I really have been riding my fairdale a bunch these past compple months and I'm gearing up to do asome longer tours down the coast... I do like my 1x setup a bunch and it is great for how and where I ride, but I ride alot of road so pushing a big gear or a weird cadence isnt terriblly to get used to. All things considered I would probably switch my setup to a 2x for touring if I was going to have to  haaul gear and shit for 600 miles.

1x10 with barend shifter
paul keeper
xt cranks 38t
ultegra cassette 1128
d/a 7800 rear mech

just installed a super nova light system on it because im stupid and like being broke.

G:

--- Quote from: Admiral Ackbar on June 01, 2015, 10:15:58 PM ---the thing is, riding/exloring/touring on the road (or "all roads" gravel, dirt), you are generally traveling at within a pretty narrow range of speed all things considered. which is where having the cassette with narrower spacing comes in handy. the jumps in gear spacing of 1x drivetrains does not lend its self to the generally steady state style of on road riding very well. unless you're willing to adapt...

it is not such a big deal off road, where i think 1x is fantastic (on city bikes too, if the city is relatively flat) and the larger jumps between gears make sense because you are making a lot more changes in speed and momentum. but on the road i really do not feel it is the best option.

a front mech and associated hardware is very simple to setup and maintain as well. its also extremely good at keeping the chain on the chainring.

--- End quote ---

The thing is that you started out saying "for fucks sake do not set it up 1x", and went on to justify this by claiming that you would be spinning out all the time; so I pointed out that this was not as bad as you were making out.
Now, you are saying that it is the larger jumps between gears that make this so totally unacceptable, but this is really not as serious as you make out either. There will always be weird jumps on any cassette because you have to change by whole tooth increments; eg. 11 to 12 is a (relatively small) 9% change, while 11 to 13 is a relatively big 18% jump, this is obviously an extreme example but all through the cassette you have this dilemma. Sure you can shift at both ends to mitigate this, but you then have gears that are redundantly close together and the rider has to be experienced and concentrating enough to make use of these. You need to remember what gear you are in and where the next one is.

So I'm sorry, but I think you are being unreasonable in completely dismissing 1x as an option. For someone on a serious touring forum asking about a build to ride across a continent then you might be close to the mark, but for a guy asking in terms of general use, on a BMX forum, who already specified that they would be running flat bars, I think it would be an excellent option to consider.

:)
G.

jonathan:
Regarding the handlebar choice- do sure to pick your frame size based on handlebar type. flat bar- long top tube. drop bar- short top tube. I love my Salsa Cowbells. Salsa also makes a super-flared out Woodchipper bar, and just came out with a mid-flare cowchipper, which looks awesome indeed. dirt drops are something completely different, don't confuse yourself with those.

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