The Street > The Bike Shop

Surly Cross Check Build

<< < (4/7) > >>

Goliath:

--- Quote from: Narcoleptic Insomniac on May 12, 2015, 09:52:37 PM ---This may serve as inspiration for your build.
http://theradavist.com/2014/11/jonathans-surly-disc-trucker-light-tourer/#23

--- End quote ---

That looks great. I'm probably going to go with a similar build actually. XT with a double crankset. Simple and sturdy

torontoflatlander:
Go XT 1x11. Honestly didn't think I'd like a 1x11 setup, but once you ride in a 34-10, up to a 34-42, there isn't too much you miss out on.
Shimano has at least brought out the XT 2x11 if you're still wanting to rock the 24-28t chainring. That, and Salsa Bend2 bars.

hugh.:
Get some comfy Rando style drops like Nitto B135s.

What about a 29" MTB tyre'd Monstercross build?

jonathan:
endless Crosscheck pron here http://forums.mtbr.com/surly/cross-check-pics-please-539505.html

I had a Pake C'mute for some time and I think it was better suited for the style of riding you want to do with it. I have a Salsa Vaya now for the same reason- tall head tube and stable geometry. The Crosscheck is a great bike though.

since the CC is limited to rim brakes,  I recommend skipping the cantis and get some linear pull "V" brakes. I swore I could get by with cantis for a long time, and they certainly look better on this style of bike IMO, but linear pull brakes just have gobs more stopping power and less fatigue on your hands. get full-sized Vs, not "mini" v-brakes. Minis always seemed to have too much moosh and will limit room for mounting fenders.

*edit* however, full-sized linear pull brakes preclude the use of intergated brake lever/shifters that would go on drop bars. you could use v-drop levers (Tektro and Cane Creek make those) with bar-end shifters or Gevenalle lever/shifters with linear pull brakes.

what size frame did you get and how tall are you? drop bars= short TT, flat bars = longer TT. as I am 5'9", my mountain bike has a TT (effective) of 600mm and a 60mm stem. my road bike has a 540mm TT and a 100mm stem, but I could stand to put a shorter stem on the road bike. because drops, bullhorns, moustache bars, etc put the neutral hand position further forward than flat bars, so if you put drops on a bike that fits you well with flat bars, it's going to be too long.

my beef with the CC is that the head tube is very short, so you have to put a tall stem and a stupid stack of spacers on the headset to get the handlebar up high enough to ride comfortably for an old fart like me.

Admiral Ackbar:
you should probably just get drops. touring or trying to ride fair distances or at speed on flat bar/alt bar bikes is generally very slow and not too comfortable. you might not want to look like a spandex nerd or think they look funny but theres no real reason to avoid them on a bike like the xcheck. you can get sufficiently rad off road on drops (especially a cx bike designed to do so) and they work across a much wider range than flat or swept back upright bars.

id just get a road group, 105 or ultegra or the shimano cx group. unless you're just going to ride it like a mtb in which case ... buy an mtb.

id go with mini v's, teh cheap shimanos or trp ones. fuck canti fuckery or paying out the ass for paul products.

get some fenders and decent tires, i like resist nomads and panaracer gravelkings for tires.

for fucks sake do not set it up 1x. with some variation of a 50/36 or 48/34ish crank  and an 11-28/12-27/12-30/12-32 cassette you will have not too much trouble riding over almost anything outside of gnarbo mtb singletrack. and you'll be able to maintain some decent speed on the road without having to spin ur little single ring up to 1842098rpm.

and if you want to carry shit (you do) get a handlebar bag you can access while riding, its super convenient for your food or to put excess clothing during long rides. look into panniers or frame bags for more storage for touring gear

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page