The Street > The Bike Shop

Different take on bearings/flange in hubs

<< < (3/3)

ediotism:
just a few thoughts off the top of my head

1. holy mother of flex - if those novelty flanges made a difference, your wheels would behave like an uncooked taco

2. the same could probably achieved by running slightly lower tension in the spokes, if you have problems of spokes 'pulled' the hub apart like that

3. ever built a wheel? after you laced the spokes and tensioned it up, the first thing you do is put the wheel on the floor sideways, with your hub axle/ bolt resting on a block of wood or something. have you hands on 3 and 9 o'clock of the rim, then press down with your body weight. repeat at  2-and-8, 1-and-7 etc etc, flip the wheel and do the same. you'd hear quite a few pings as the spokes and the hub flange settle properly against each other. this is the point that you re-tighten and then actually true the wheel, and it'll stay true for a long time. when you do that, the spokes leaning against the hub flanges make indents into the flange holes - that is the 'give' that the the flange has, instead of pulling the bearing seat all out of shape. the bearing seat isn't a place that sees a lot of deformation, if at all. unless (4)

4. the manufacturer is so focused on cutting weight on the hub, that the bearing seat and surrounding area just doesn't have enough material to hold itself together. so do you add this extra novelty lip thing, with a fuckton more material and weight (relatively speaking), to deal with the bearing seat issue? or, do you go really crazy, and just add sufficient material to support the bearing seat like a mad man?

5. i wonder if it's cheaper and less weighty to just wrap your hub shell with a jubliee clip next to each flange, a la G-Sport George

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page