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Offline Narcoleptic Insomniac

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1185 on: September 06, 2014, 04:11:19 PM »
Does anyone know if Odyssey would offer crash replacement discount on V1 Wombolts without a warranty card?

I just snapped mine today after years without problems. I would normally be happy to pay full price for a new set but money is tight these days and I want to ride.

Offline Spev

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1186 on: September 07, 2014, 11:30:59 PM »
Does anyone know if Odyssey would offer crash replacement discount on V1 Wombolts without a warranty card?

I just snapped mine today after years without problems. I would normally be happy to pay full price for a new set but money is tight these days and I want to ride.
Probably not. Email them and ask.
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Offline hugh.

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1187 on: September 13, 2014, 07:48:59 PM »
why don't 12t 1 piece drivers exist for any hub?

Offline G

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1188 on: September 14, 2014, 08:27:13 AM »
why don't 12t 1 piece drivers exist for any hub?

Because no one is that bothered about an exact gear ratio and 10 or 9 tooth offers a lot of advantages.

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Offline JFax

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1189 on: September 15, 2014, 05:40:41 AM »
Didnt odyssey make 12t one piece for their first cassettes?

I had a friend that welded a 12 t cog on a cassette driver in the day, thus making it one piece. is there technically and advantages to one piece anyway? ease of operation and lightness perhaps. Just get a standard cassette driver if you can find one.
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Offline paranoidmexican

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1190 on: September 15, 2014, 09:16:27 PM »
Anyone ever try fallen footwear for riding shoes? Dans has some for $40 and the soles of my vans are falling off
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Offline Thomas031

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1191 on: September 27, 2014, 07:02:29 PM »
^wish i could answer your question. i know i have looked at a couple pairs in my days.


G, if you read this, and anybody else reading this;

Back when female was 'new' the common statement was that a 10mm female axle was 'about' as strong as a 14mm hollow axle.
Note that right now i usually the rear female inner axle is 15mm.

Sadly my female Kink hub wasn't worth shit, even though a second hand Primo Mix lasted me for years, and my Vandero also never had any problems in 3 to 4 years.
Now i'm resorting to get an Antigram- mainly because of the 17mm inner/14mm female bolts option.

Even though i don't know if it was me, or that the Kink hub was just a shitty batch, i wonder if people DO actually consider the 14mm-17mm inner axle STRONGER than 14mm male axles.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2014, 07:04:57 PM by Thomas031 »
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Offline G

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1192 on: September 28, 2014, 10:01:12 AM »
^wish i could answer your question. i know i have looked at a couple pairs in my days.


G, if you read this, and anybody else reading this;

Back when female was 'new' the common statement was that a 10mm female axle was 'about' as strong as a 14mm hollow axle.
Note that right now i usually the rear female inner axle is 15mm.

Sadly my female Kink hub wasn't worth shit, even though a second hand Primo Mix lasted me for years, and my Vandero also never had any problems in 3 to 4 years.
Now i'm resorting to get an Antigram- mainly because of the 17mm inner/14mm female bolts option.

Even though i don't know if it was me, or that the Kink hub was just a shitty batch, i wonder if people DO actually consider the 14mm-17mm inner axle STRONGER than 14mm male axles.

It depends how big the hole down the middle of the hollow axle is.

A 3/8" bolted 14mm axle will be about the same strength as a 14mm axle with a 3/8" hole down the middle... but very few are that big. More like 5 or 6mm. A 14mm axle with a 6mm hole down the middle will be about 40% stronger than the 3/8" bolted version so.... There are lots of details to take into consideration though. So a typical "14mm" axle, is actually usually using 15mm bore bearings. So a well designed 15mm axle with unthreaded hardware and 3/8" female bolts can easily be a lot stronger than a typical solid 14mm axle that IS threaded for cones etc.

Once you get up to 17mm and no threads you are obviously getting many times stronger than a typical solid 14mm axle. When you go to the bigger 14mm bolts you save a lot of weight and it is still very strong, but obviously not as strong as a 3/8" bolted 17mm axle (however the bolts themselves are stronger)...

I hope this helps.

:)
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Offline Thomas031

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1193 on: September 28, 2014, 08:32:33 PM »
Couldn't ask for a better answer.  8)

Bottom line to me, is that the hardware that last failed me on my current hub(the axle), is stronger than the 15mm i have, and preferrably stronger than what we already had 10 years ago.

No contest, so Antigram it is.

Can't wait man. Thanks for your time and, as always, your vast knowledge G!
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Offline hugh.

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1194 on: September 29, 2014, 12:06:08 PM »
Whats a good torque wrench for working on bicycles?

Offline Dr. Steve Brule

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1195 on: September 29, 2014, 12:36:03 PM »
Whats a good torque wrench for working on bicycles?

Park are always a good shout.

Offline Admiral Ackbar

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1196 on: September 29, 2014, 02:28:17 PM »
fyi the park tools torque wrench is just a rebadged and blue painted off brand one you can get on ebay for like 1/2 the price. here in the US the craftsman wrench is the same as the park and cheaper as well but idk if you've got craftsman over the pond
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Offline G

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1197 on: September 29, 2014, 04:59:17 PM »
Depends what torque you want to hit. If you want to be able to hit low values like 4Nm for stuff like carbon steerers it is best to have a low range one, (I actually just have allen keys with washers welded on the end, and pull using a digital scale, which is much cheaper and very accurate).

:)
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Offline Owen

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1198 on: October 01, 2014, 07:23:31 AM »
Depends what torque you want to hit. If you want to be able to hit low values like 4Nm for stuff like carbon steerers it is best to have a low range one, (I actually just have allen keys with washers welded on the end, and pull using a digital scale, which is much cheaper and very accurate).

:)
G.

Care to explain how you do that measuring using a digital scale.  Sounds genius, but I can't quite figure out what you are doing...

Offline G

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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1199 on: October 01, 2014, 06:26:44 PM »
Depends what torque you want to hit. If you want to be able to hit low values like 4Nm for stuff like carbon steerers it is best to have a low range one, (I actually just have allen keys with washers welded on the end, and pull using a digital scale, which is much cheaper and very accurate).

:)
G.

Care to explain how you do that measuring using a digital scale.  Sounds genius, but I can't quite figure out what you are doing...

1. Get cheap allen key.
2. Weld on a small extension and a washer a bit like one of those D-keys but with the washer sideways.
3. Arrange overall length so that from axis of rotation to the "eye" of the washer is 100mm.
4. Hook digital spring balance through "eye" and pull perpendicular to arm of allen key.

Resulting figure on the scale in Kgs is pretty damn close to torque in Nm.

If the scale has a "max" then all the better.

I will try to get a photo next time I am in the workshop.
:)
G.
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Re: Quick Questions
« Reply #1199 on: October 01, 2014, 06:26:44 PM »

 

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