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The Lounge / Re: Mountain bikes
« Last post by jonathan on August 13, 2019, 06:30:00 PM »
Ride an actual aggressive trail bike and see how much faster you are than with a fucking singlespeed steel rigid bike.

Cool.

I'm having fun on my bike regardless of how fast I go relative to everyone else. I just put a 140mm fork on it and I've been enjoying the dropper post thing for a while now. It probably does not make me faster and I don't give a fuck. I'm not racing anyone but my mortality.
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The Lounge / Re: Mountain bikes
« Last post by Sasha on August 13, 2019, 03:45:39 PM »
I have a 160mm travel 29er with a whatever% gear ratio and a dropper post. It's fucking mint. Just because you overtook some fat cunt once doesn't mean that everybody who has a decent bike is a wanker. Ride an actual aggressive trail bike and see how much faster you are than with a fucking singlespeed steel rigid bike.
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The Lounge / Re: Mountain bikes
« Last post by Mike-J on August 12, 2019, 07:31:16 AM »
Speaking of 500% gear ratios, dropper posts, and full suspension, here's what I'm riding these days. 2019 Trek Remedy 8.



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The Lounge / Re: Mountain bikes
« Last post by jonathan on August 09, 2019, 08:32:32 PM »
cmc- are you on the austin mountain bike forum? I got into mtb waaaay after this forum. I am on there as mack_turtle. I work about a mile from WC Park and ride there occasionally after work. I'll be out there more when the weather calms down. currently on a Karate Monkey.
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The Bike Shop / Re: converting bike with gears to single speed?
« Last post by jonathan on August 09, 2019, 08:28:35 PM »
are you still interested in converting to single speed? if the dropout does not allow room to move the axle, you can do one of two things:
find a "magic gear". play around with the cogs on the rear wheel until you find one that works with the front chainring and keeps the chain tight. this is a ghetto, temporary solution. it only works a chain that is worn to exactly the degree to which the current chain is. when the chain wears more or you replace it, it won't work anymore.
chain tensioner. there are a ton of these on the market. A Shimano Aline tensioner might work, but if you remove the cable from a derailer and adjust it such that it cannot move laterally, you've made a ghetto tensioner that will work just fine.

the front rings and rear cogs on a bike that was designed to shift won't hold the chain in one place very well, especially if the chainline is not spot-on.

adjusting shifters and derailers is not difficult. you just have to take a few minutes to understand how to set the two limit screws, set the cable tension so it effectively pulls the derailer across all the gears, and set the b-screw so it spaces the jockey pulleys from the cassette. this is all very simple after a few Park Tool videos.

if the drivetrain is old or out of whack in any way, things won't work so smoothly. you might need to replace cables, housing, or drivetrain parts- a worn out cassette, chain, or chainring won't shift well. make sure the derailer hanger is straight and perpendicular to the center of the bike.

you might be able to remove the left shifter and lock out the front derailleur by cinching down the limit screws on it until the derailer stays in one place, keeping the chain there, probably on the center ring.

all this trouble with front triple chainrings is why most modern mountain bikes have only one front chainring and very few other bikes have more than two chainrings.

for an old road bike with a thread-on freewheel, you can get the chainline close enough to work by rebuilding the rear wheel. replace the freewheel with a single-speed freewheel and swap the axle around so the drive side spacers are on the opposite side of the hub. this will throw the rim off-center, so you'll need to dish the wheel. you might be able to pull this off by adjusting the spoke tension, but you might end up with too much nipple engagement on the right side and not enough on the left. the answer to that is to rebuild the wheel with the spokes on the opposite side of the hub. this is time consuming, but if you're used to building wheels, its no big deal.

if your rear wheel has a freehub designed for a multi-speed cassette, you should buy a single-speed cog (Surly!) and some spacers to line it up with the front chainring. if you can get a hold of some old cassette spacers from a worn out cassette, you can use those too. in a pinch, a carefully selected range of PVC pipesegments will do most of the spacing.
46
Sell and Swap / Re: aluminum fly ruben pedals
« Last post by andtitlefight on August 09, 2019, 02:21:14 PM »
Still available?
47
The Bike Shop / Re: another new freecoaster - planetary gear engagement
« Last post by MEAT on August 08, 2019, 10:47:53 AM »
He's got fabulous hair, i trust him.
48
Sell and Swap / Re: WTB 21 frame
« Last post by paranoidmexican on August 08, 2019, 08:31:34 AM »
would 20.75 be ok? i have a full chromo fit complete frame i'd sell you for like 40 shipped.

Can you snap me a pic of it please? Dm me on insta @billdaddii

hey man my bad, i ended up selling that whole bike recently
49
A no-slack coaster that explodes if you pedal forward. What could go wrong?
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The Bike Shop / Re: another new freecoaster - planetary gear engagement
« Last post by JFax on August 08, 2019, 06:10:10 AM »
Could probably make it female in a similar way the z-coaster works.

Got myself a Salt coaster a while back and it kinda broke. Just got myself a z-coaster and it might just be me but I am not impressed how it works, spins really badly. Gonna put it on the test.

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