Messages

46

The Bike Shop / Re: Parts u h8

« on: September 10, 2015, 04:33:37 PM »

man....i hate front load stems on upside down....shit looks WHACK

front load stems in general!!!!

47

The Bike Shop / Re: Parts u h8

« on: September 09, 2015, 11:58:32 PM »

Wow great read blueeee!
Since I ride flat I'll chime in
Rims with a sharp profile that dig into your hands when you grab them
Knobby tires
Maxxis Mirracle tires- those were the slowest f*cking rolling tires I ever felt. Ridiculous
Bars with high crossbars
Kmc 410 chains-snapped the plates off a few times on these
Bottom brackets that come with a heavy ass steel tube spacer versus the actual good quality ones that include a light aluminum spacer (but who cares I don't even run a tube spacer anymore)
Seats that don't have a good ridge on the underside that make it hard as shit to grab (most tripod seats, the animal Nigel seat, and lots of others)
Low TT scooter frames
Bent downtube frames
Frames that only come in 3/8"
Frames with removable mounts (brakeless all the way)
Any non-odyssey fork (they all crack)
Heat treated frames (they all crack)
Frames still coming out in <19" sizes
Bars still coming out in <9" (the new Hoffman flat bars are 8" what p*ssies)

That's it for now

48

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch

« on: September 08, 2015, 08:13:23 PM »

The slack shouldn't change during use, but it can take a few minutes riding and repeated engagements and full disengagements to knock the parts back to the max slack position after you have made any adjustments. The adjuster needs the backing off of the clutch to push them back to the non-drive side.

The first batch of hubs seem to have been a bit low on grease so if you are getting noises then adding more grease through the adjustment hole (and working it in) may well fix any annoying rattles.


G.

Thanks for that G, turns out the expanding spacer had cracked right on the threads for the grub screw which was allowing to back out so easily.

Can replacements be purchased?

Thanks!

49

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch

« on: September 07, 2015, 11:28:41 PM »

Mine has a slight knock every now and again as if the bearings are shifting ever so slightly
What's more annoying though is the ever increasing slack during my flat sessions

50

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Thunderbolt Woes

« on: September 05, 2015, 03:07:59 PM »

Back the bolt out two turns and hop on the bike. Bunnyhop once or twice and they'll come flying off. Bunnyhop with the right pedal forward and with the left pedal forward. This works for me every time.

this is the trick
bunnyhop with your other foot forward

51

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch or Eclat Blind?

« on: August 24, 2015, 07:07:20 AM »

Anyone else been noticing that the gap on the Clutch seems to increase as the session progresses? I think the little grub screw on the slack mechanism works itself loose after impacts on the ground...

52

The Bike Shop / Re: Pedals

« on: August 15, 2015, 01:17:51 AM »

What
Wow
That says something if they can last that long
But then again how many pedal bodies have you been thru??

53

The Bike Shop / Re: duo stunner tires and feebles

« on: August 06, 2015, 10:03:07 AM »

Feeble grinds are more at an angle since your front tire is further over on the ledge. Thus, your tire would make MORE contact with the surface than your rim. so sure, go for it

54

The Bike Shop / Re: Ugly Parts

« on: July 27, 2015, 12:16:42 PM »

I wonder if the failure of both the MTT and the BPE led to the current state of Animal (i.e. seemingly dormant).

Good point
The tire mold alone is like $20,000?
And they put a lot of R&D into those pedals which surely wasn't cheap

55

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch Teardown?

« on: July 27, 2015, 12:13:36 PM »

So the stick-tion of the resistance mech is unaffected by being greased? I assume then the resistance mech is designed to be run wet? Just lookin for the usual G details

Last one, do you have an aluminum or ti axle planned for down the road?

The resistance mech should be greased ideally, but it isnt critical, it will work just fine "dry", if there is any grease in the hub then there is nothing to stop it getting into the resistance mechanism so it will likely have some.

No aluminium axle for this and no plans for a Ti one, there wouldn't be much point as the axle really isnt a big part of the weight. A 14mm Ti bolt would probably be worthwhile as there is still plenty of strength and the weight saving is good.


G.

Ah k thanks I was wondering the same thing about axle options for weight savings

I have already searched and found 1 company offering a combo Ti bolt upgrade (3/8 + 14mm). Light Bmx Company. Look on Instagram

56

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch Teardown?

« on: July 23, 2015, 06:57:46 PM »

sheepdog and a few others here are involved with 3d printing stuff...

3d files for the plastic bits?

No.
Most 3D printers will only print PLA or ABS which just aren't suitable, most home machines also wont achieve a good enough tolerance or surface finish.

I always thought G had a deeper voice.


Actually liked the video got a better idea of the hub

More like something nerdy from the BBC. When does does it arrive in CANADA.

Not sure on Canada, probably about the same time as the USA.

G: amazing looking product. worthy upgrades to a traditional khe

questions:
What is the listed weight? What are the bolt sizes and tpi being used? thanks!

It annoys me when people refer to any axial design as a KHE clone. The axial clutch design goes back nearly a hundred years in coaster brake hubs. We (BMXers) were taking the brake shoes out of coaster hubs over 30 years ago. ACS were making the RL hub about 30 years ago too. Even the Odyssey Reloader pre-dates the KHE by a significant margin. The Poverty hub had the ball springs long before the KHE hub came out (though they were welded instead of screwed), and I think that that was just an off the shelf hub so I have no idea who came out with those. 
What did KHE bring to the party? They have a patent on their through axle gap adjustment (though Yu Hub claim this was their idea) and that is about it?

 

is the driver just running on the needle bearing? How is the load of the drive side bearing transfered to the axle? Can't really tell from the pictures

Yes. The driver only runs on a needle bearing inside and the usual angular contact bearing around the outside to the shell. The axial loads on the wheel are NOT transferred to the axle through the driver at all, this is how we can eliminate the 6802's and be certain that the driver bearings wont explode. There will be a separate video to explain the bearings...


G.

G: Thanks for the insider history lesson. Very interesting! I haven't been this excited about a freecoaster since the Cult came out, but obviously that was a flop. Having had both types of hubs, KHE-style and Nankai, I think the nankai offers an unparalleled user experience but unfortunately my flange is cracked and the availability of Japanese parts is questionable here in the US to say the least. And furthermore, I think the odsy clutch may now be the best designed hub out there.

57

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch Teardown?

« on: July 23, 2015, 06:54:14 PM »

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, for a first time freecoaster user; would you rate this hub as easy or hard to maintain?

I think eliminating any back pedaling would be great since i'm in my 30's.

This is the easiest design of any freecoaster hub to maintain. You can literally bolt it on and ride it without needing to grease or adjust cone tension or repack the bearings after a week. I'd give it a 1/10.

The only thing a beginner would maybe want to adjust is the slack seen on G's youtube how-to by simply turning the allen screw from the outside of the hub.

What's cool though is you will have G posting youtube videos in the near future that will show the internals and hopefully how they all fit together, which can be tricky at first to newcomers. Props on this. That being said, there are already a few unofficial videos of past KHE style hub teardowns that can be found on youtube.

According to my source, the hubs are already in the US and on their way to shops as we speak!
They should be arriving on Monday afternoon to shops.

58

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch Teardown?

« on: July 22, 2015, 06:16:51 PM »

G: amazing looking product. worthy upgrades to a traditional khe

questions:
What is the listed weight? What are the bolt sizes and tpi being used? thanks!

640 grams (22oz) w/guard, 3/8x24tpi drive side bolt, 14x1.25 non drive side bolt.

great thanks for the info!
As far as I know, Light Bike Co already has a Ti bolt kit out already for these hubs
The only contact i could find for them is their instagram
https://instagram.com/p/5FiJ1is-l7/?taken-by=lightbmxco

59

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Clutch Teardown?

« on: July 22, 2015, 03:48:09 PM »

G: amazing looking product. worthy upgrades to a traditional khe

questions:
What is the listed weight? What are the bolt sizes and tpi being used? thanks!

60

The Bike Shop / Re: Broke my Fly cranks. Need new crank suggestions

« on: July 21, 2015, 05:25:07 PM »

You sure you dont have any type of warrenty on these? Seems like lifetime is standard...

I would say Odyssey thunderbolt. Probably the lightest and strongest cranks out there.

Fly emailed me back finally and said tough shit basically.  5+ year old cranks and no receipt.  Whatever, I get it, what i want them to know is the bike sat in storage for 5 years so these cranks had less than 200 hours worth of riding on before the pedal snapped off.  I never even did anything big on them, justhing but flatland type stuff grinding ledges and etc.

Whatever, lesson learned I will avoid Fly for now on.

Ok, now here's what you do: email them back and say yeah hey sorry i understand you have to sell parts to keep the business afloat and whatnot but could I try another set of fly cranks at cost? Since the ones you had were barely used.

It's worth a try