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Messages - G

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316
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: October 18, 2013, 07:01:55 AM »
will these fit the ratchet 3/8ths axle and the marmoset?

Bolt Screw M6 x 18mm Taper Head Conical Head 4pcs
-or-
BN M6 X 20mmSocket Cap Bolts Screws HEX 5 pcs set
-or-
4pcs M6 x 20mm Screw Bolt Allen Hex Socket Cap Head
Head diameter: 10mm

they dont say whether the threading is 3/8ths or 10mm

As Brooklynrider said, M6 is the thread. You need 3/8" 24tpi (also called 3/8" UNF)

http://www.empirebmx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6852
http://www.empirebmx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9400

:)
G.

317
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: October 04, 2013, 02:47:53 PM »
So what happened Tom? Do you have a nice new ModelC or some crappy fucking brake pads on your car?

:)
G.

haha I did both, ....

Excellent, how are you liking it?

:)
G.

318
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: October 03, 2013, 08:40:40 AM »
Current best brake pads for a black rim? I asked before and was told clear ones but I had some Odyssey clear ones before and they weren't amazing.

Also whats the best straddle, is it worth making one with a spoke etc? The one I have now is a bit shit, hard to get it all tight and nice feeling. I would like a quic slic but my brake won't fit it as it bolts one side rather than having a bit to sit a ball end in.

Get a QS and a Springfield and you will get new pads with it... will probably cost you about the same as fancy pads and a fancy straddle and you will have the benefit of a new cable...

:)
G.

319
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: September 26, 2013, 08:03:20 AM »
He'll get back to us when his car runs out of momentum

Haha

:)
G.

320
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: September 25, 2013, 05:01:31 PM »
So I have the opportunity to buy a Model C Ex (the white one) for £125 next weekend, should I do it? Bearing in mind I recently sold my 20" trail scout as I couldn't get used to the sketchy feel coming from 26"?

Edit - never mind, car brake pads now need replacing and thus taking up precious money. Cunt.

FUCK BRAKE PADS! Buy the Model C NOW. That's a killer deal and you'll love it. From a fellow MTB guy, you absolutely have to get that bike.

So what happened Tom? Do you have a nice new ModelC or some crappy fucking brake pads on your car?

:)
G.

321
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:47:41 AM »
So I have the opportunity to buy a Model C Ex (the white one) for £125 next weekend, should I do it? Bearing in mind I recently sold my 20" trail scout as I couldn't get used to the sketchy feel coming from 26"?

Edit - never mind, car brake pads now need replacing and thus taking up precious money. Cunt.

Find the money, that is a deal and you will love it... doing the pads yourself is easy so if you were going to give it to a garage to do you can save some cash there.

:)
G.

322
The Bike Shop / Re: What did you do to your bike today? (v2)
« on: September 18, 2013, 06:39:52 AM »
my odyssey forks are cracked. i guess they suck balls too

How old are they? Where are they cracked? Warranty.


think some of my wedges must be in wrong cos my wombolts move when i pedal

Possibly, but more often than not it is a lack of spacers or lube... If you ride them for a long time loose then it will obviously eventually deform the wedges and they may need to be replaced to get them to tighten up without wobble, but it will be fixable.

:)
G.

323
The Bike Shop / Re: What did you do to your bike today? (v2)
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:17:30 PM »
took my wobbly fly cranks off.  degreased and put permanent loctite on the splines . I'm hoping it holds up till I can get new cranks



 my friends thunderbolts always seem to wobble. he cranks up the bolt with mad force but in 5 minutes they still wobble, no matter what the spacer combination.

also, my other friends wombolts also seem to wobble but thats acceptable (those cranks are like 5 years old)

I have never come across a set of Wom/Thunderbolts that had wobble which wasn't due either to a lack of spacers or spacer tube, or insufficient grease under the head of the bolt or on the wedges. That lip on the cranks where the bolt head runs MUST be well greased so it can go tight properly.

If it is an old set of Wombolts with the old wedges then having some of the wedges upside down can cause it also.

I hope this helps.

:)
G.   

324
The Bike Shop / Re: 22 inches
« on: September 11, 2013, 09:34:43 AM »
i feel like it would make perfect sense that a longer frame would feel easier to hop on, lets you get the front end up higher before lifting the rear.

Yes. But it has sort of crept up on me how short the back end of my 20" is... years ago we had 15" long back ends and did everything we could to get them down, filing dropouts etc... but I think 14- 14,1/4" was my perfect length and now I cant do that...

:)
G.

325
The Bike Shop / Re: 22 inches
« on: September 10, 2013, 05:53:14 PM »
I'm fucking retarded, about a week after selling my bmx I'm already getting the itch to buy one again despite hardly riding my old one haha. Definitely won't be a 20" this time though. For those who have tried both, what feels better 22" or a Model C? I've ridden 26" for years and I couldn't get back into riding such small wheels on my bmx.

To me the 22" still feels VERY much on the BMX side of things while the Model C (and most other 24" non race frames I have rode) feel like a 24" but give you that taste of ramping like what a 20" gives.  It sounds like if you don't want the feel of a 20" you should try your hand on the 24" before the 22".  These are just my two cents though.....  what the fuck do I know anyway?

I agree with that.  24"s are the most versatile.  You can go from concrete bowls to rough mtb jumps, plus ride 20 miles around town.  On the other hand, for me, 22"s are a 20" replacement. It's just sort of a proportional upsizing the same as we've been doing with longer top tubes over the years (and more recently, taller bars).  Everyone's riding bigger trails, bigger ramps, bigger street gaps/drops, it just makes sense.
If I could only have 2 bikes, I would do 22" bmx and 26" mtb-dj-4x.  But, if I could only have one bike, it would be a 24" bmx.  Similarly, if someone loved their 20", then as a second bike, I would suggest to them to go with a 24" (not 22" because it's not different enough), or maybe a 26" mtb-dj if they were riding rougher terrain.  I'll admit, at first I did not like the Model C when it came with 7.25" bars, the 21.25"tt, and the high bb. But when I started riding friends' Model C's and Wave C's with 21.75"tt and 22"tt and taller bars, I thought they felt great.  There's a lot of guys around here who are shredding them.  No longer are 24"s just the 'bar cruzer' bike.  It's disappointing to not see more of the bmx world embracing bigger wheels, and really repping them with pros and video parts. Seems like Sunday has given it the most valiant effort. It's worth it.

This makes a lot of sense. I did nearly 30 miles in 3 days on my waveC (two 13s and a 3) and it was a pleasure, would have a been a bit of a pain on my 20".

If I was tall I am sure that a 22 instead of a 20 would make a lot of sense too... but I am a short arse so no problems there.

Part of what I love about the waveC is the longer chainstays, makes bunnyhops feel so much more poppy to me (if that makes any sense), obviously not so good for spins etc but I couldn't care less about tailwhips etc might have to look at a longer back end for my 20"... 

If I had to choose 2 bikes as you say, I think I would be tempted to make a 22" replace my 20 and 24 too... but that is never going to happen.. but if I had to have a 22" as well as my 20" and 24" it would be interesting to see which I ended up riding most.
 
:)
G.

326
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: September 01, 2013, 10:41:53 AM »
I don't grease bearing seats right? Why is that?

I dont know you tell us... laziness? Greasing them is good practice.

:)
G.

Not trying to stir anything up here I'm just curious - why don't Odyssey/Gsport hubs come with greased bearing seats?

They should be lightly oiled in the factory with a heavy weight oil. Essentially the protective oil that the bearings come in. This should be better than grease for steel on aluminium because there is no water in the oil that could facilitate electro galvanic corrosion... I somewhat assumed that the OP related to frame bearings; BB and headset...

:)
G.

327
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: August 31, 2013, 05:51:21 PM »
I don't grease bearing seats right? Why is that?

I dont know you tell us... laziness? Greasing them is good practice.

:)
G.

328
The Bike Shop / Re: What did you do to your bike today? (v2)
« on: August 30, 2013, 03:11:47 PM »
Rode my Wave C 13miles today (and 13miles yesterday) at an average speed of 12mph, climbed nearly a thousand feet and hit 34mph on it (though I have my doubt about that top speed).

Finally getting round to putting my new tyres on the MTB having had them sitting on the bench for 2 months whilst I wrestled with the "innards" for them...

:)
G.

329
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: August 29, 2013, 06:35:14 PM »
Is changing a crankset from unsealed to sealed just a matter of swapping bearings?

Not usually. The unsealed will have threaded hardware on the axle so you will need a different axle too and probably some spacers. Usually makes more sense to just buy better cranks with a sealed BB...

:)
G.

330
The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions
« on: August 29, 2013, 06:33:56 PM »
I've got an animal jumpoff remix with a stuck, broken pinch bolt. The (hollow) bolt snapped in half after the friend I got it from over tightened the rear of the stem. both pinch bolts broke, but one before the other. To make up for the missing bolt, which he was able to remove, he overtightened the lower one, and, yeah. Anyway, i removed the back/unheaded half with a pair of pliers. However, I've tried removing the head of the bolt with an allen wrench, and the bolt spins, but doesn't move. How can I get it out?

Sorry cant really follow your description. If you have the threaded half out, cant you just put a 5mm allen key or something similar in from the under side and knock the head end out?

:)
G.

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