Messages

151

The Bike Shop / Re: Odyssey Antigram vs G-Sport Simian front hub

« on: April 19, 2015, 05:01:02 PM »

Antigrams and Simians and the New clutch hub all have angled flanges. All wheels have angled spokes so angled flanges are better. If you cross-lace then ideally you want them even more angled, not straight...

I hope this helps.


G.

152

The Bike Shop / Re: New coasters (wtp + profile)

« on: April 16, 2015, 04:41:45 PM »

I've rode the Profile one a few times.... the whole pedaling back just to disengage it is way to weird for me.

That's how every coaster works. You always need to back pedal to get the full amount of slack.


If anyone is interested:-

As far as I can make out, the Z-coaster works by having the pawls have an extra little "leg" on the inside that sticks back behind the pivot. Inside the driver there is the ring with three cams on it that can push these legs out to retract the pawls against their normal springs. This ring has an internal stop that dictates the "slack" and this runs on the outside of some sort of drag element on the axle that I cant see much of.

I am not going to make any judgement on how well or otherwise this will work because I will get too much shit for it but I hope this is informative. Sorry if I got it wrong and there is something else going on. 


G.

153

The Bike Shop / Re: Running dual guards-Cult Dak/Federal V2

« on: April 10, 2015, 06:55:04 AM »

New GLAND 4's should be out now and there is a front and rear version. Rear version is much thicker to fill the gap between spokes and dropout more. "front" version can also be used on the rear with some hubs if you want.


G.

154

The Bike Shop / Re: A question to frame vendors/repair shops regarding Standard bykes custom

« on: April 10, 2015, 06:52:42 AM »

If anyone has doubts, i have visited largest bike store in town to have some more fun out of this story
(we have only one big bicycle store here, they are an authorized dealer for Specialized)
on a way to work this morning. They also have a fine repair shop, but as i suspected they
do not have a validation device to give explicit numbers (3rd world here).
It took about 3 seconds of visual frame inspection for their main bike mechanic (20+ years exp)
to say frame is definitely untrue and to correctly determine displacement direction at the same time
(which is about 1/8" towards RHD). Suggesting that precision validation is not needed here,
as it's too obvious..

I'm not trying to prove anything here though, you should make your own judgement.
And i have no intention to pursuit (or how do you call it) SBC, demand something there, etc.
They can work how they see fit, and i can't force them to work properly
if they don't want to. Not to mention their authority is compromised -
now i can't be sure they don't weld as bad as they align, don't confuse
tubing, etc. They might still come up with something, but it
seems highly unlikely at this point.

Good reason to post was that i actually find initial question about reasonable
precision error from reputable vendor rather interesting, as i don't see lots of such
info around. At same time there surely are people getting custom frames around,
so this topic might be of interest for others too. Another good question is if such could be fixed, in theory?
Seems quite unrealistic to me..
Could i even offer to fix such if i was a vendor?

I dont think you are wrong not to want to ride it. Many years ago I had a frame which I bent the back end of very significantly (through riding) but at the time had no money to replace it so kept riding it. When I did finally manage to replace it, I found that I had got used to correcting for the bend and it took a long time to get myself straight on the bike again.

Is it fixable?
Yes. Pretty much anything is fixable, whether it would be wise/cost-effective/worthwhile to fix is another matter. If everything was cut correctly and it was tacked up straight etc, and the issue is just that the bend on one side straightened out a little then it can be cold-set back to straight relatively easily and it will be fine. If however it was made bent, then it is less likely.

IF it is an option to just return it and get your money back, then that is probably the easiest thing all round, but it is a CUSTOM frame right? So that could potentially leave them with a frame in some wacky geometry that they cant shift and a big loss so they may dig their heels in and try not to do that; if on the other hand it is pretty vanilla; then if as they claim it is straight they should have no problem selling it on. Did you pay by credit card or paypal? That might be an option.


G.

155

The Bike Shop / Re: What did you do to your bike today? (v2)

« on: April 07, 2015, 06:38:44 PM »

Personally I hate all this old crap , but if you loved all this old crap then you should see it as it's patina, leave it. Shows where the frame has been and what its done, dont sterilise it...


G.

156

The Lounge / Re: Motorcycle Thread V2.0

« on: April 07, 2015, 06:34:04 PM »

Out of those two Ducati. I wouldn't even consider a fricking Harley. But obviously depends what you want to do with it. If I lived in the US I would want a 400-700cc Dual Sport, the idea of exploring huge areas of off-road wilderness sounds amazing to me.

In the UK its different, we dont have any significant off-road opportunities like that and the bike test itself is a huge hassle. I have been riding on a very restricted licence for the last 2 years which limits me to a 125, about to do the full test which consists of:-

1. CBT, one (soon to be two) day of training to make sure you can ride, this lets you ride a 125 with L plates.
2. Theory test (50 multiple choice questions), followed by video hazard perception test. (about $50) (booked for next week)
3. Module 1 Test. Carried out on a closed practice ground. (about $30 for the actual test, but you typically need a couple of days practice and bike rental so about another $400-$600)
4. Module 2 Test. Carried out on public streets. (about $120 for the test itself but as above for practice and bike so another $400-600)

Likely to be well over $1000 all in...

All this is even though I have been driving a car for 20 plus years...


G.

157

The Lounge / Re: some dude built a cargo bike

« on: April 02, 2015, 03:57:39 PM »

just remembered a youtube video i saw a couple years ago, i've found it and watched it again. i've also found the son of that guy rebuilding the mini from project binky

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSlBk1uWH88

You only just found Colin Furze? He's an ex-BMXer, check out his old wall of death stuff...


G.

158

The Bike Shop / Re: odyssey keychain

« on: April 01, 2015, 06:30:41 AM »

still runs like shit, think im gonna have to ditch my driveside guard and oppy rear peg to get it smooth which is a shame

How worn were your sprocket and driver? This is typically a much bigger issue, half link chains can rape sprockets and drivers very very quickly.


G.

159

The Lounge / Re: Who is the most universally hot chick?

« on: March 31, 2015, 03:41:13 PM »

What do I win?


G.

160

The Bike Shop / Re: I Need Help With Dialing In My Rear Brake - Gyro

« on: March 31, 2015, 07:16:42 AM »

Lube the living shit out of your cables. Cant stress this enough. As @sshole said it should be dripping out the ends.

Check that nothing is topping out. If when you pull the brake the gyro hits the top plate adjusters then you will have zero power, similarly if the lumps inside the 2 into 1 cable joints hit the top of the housing that is where all your brake effort will go.

Good luck.


G.

161

The Bike Shop / Re: A question to frame vendors/repair shops regarding Standard bykes custom

« on: March 31, 2015, 07:13:28 AM »

To clarify.

I would expect pretty much any aftermarket frame to be within 2mm of true (maximum). ie. each dropout within 2mm of where it should be. 1mm or less would be more acceptable for a higher end frame, and I personally probably wouldn't be very happy even at the top end of this. Anything over 2mm is very bad indeed and 3mm is taking the piss.

I would also suggest that you check the dropout spacing (should be 110mm) and parallel-ness (just measure spacing at the front and back, should be within 0.2mm or less I would hope) and also check to see whether the frame is twisted (put a wheel in the back and see how well it lines up with the seat tube).

With custom frames the jig needs to be adjusted to the buyers preference so there is always room for something to move by accident (a proper production jig would be tack welded in place to prevent this) OR it is possible that the frame just moved a lot when fully welded. Either way, any reputable builder should be keen to set things straight and fix it for you as long as you are understanding and patient.

I hope this helps.


G.

162

The Bike Shop / Re: A question to frame vendors/repair shops regarding Standard bykes custom

« on: March 30, 2015, 05:45:11 AM »

With ANY welded structure there will be some movement. Setting a reasonable tolerance on this is open to debate and will obviously depend on the application.

Expecting a head angle to be within 0.05degrees is crazy. +/-0.25 of a degree is completely reasonable and most frame builders should have no problem hitting this.

For the straightness of the back end, I would expect most aftermarket frames to easily come within 2mm of true.

I have no idea how you made your animation and how accurate it is, but it looks pretty dramatically bent to me (though this could possible be achieved by camera angles etc) certainly a dropouts thickness or more out of true which I personally would not consider acceptable and I wouldn't be prepared to ride (not due to safety issues but just because it would mess up my riding).

I would echo the recommendation that you find a bike shop (or builder) that can check it for you and put a definite number on the flaw and go from there.

Good luck, I hope you get it resolved satisfactorily.


G. 

163

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: March 29, 2015, 03:22:01 PM »

4Nm isnt much but its more than you could realistically do with a reversed allen key by hand.

4Nm is 4N at 1m leverage.

Measure allen key in mm (length), see how many times this goes into 1000, multiply 4N by this number. Divide by 10 to get a load in Kgf, then use a spring balance on the end of the allen key to pull with that force...

So if your allen key is 100mm long then you want 40N at the end of it, which is like 4kgs.


G.

164

The Lounge / Re: Middle name my child.

« on: March 26, 2015, 02:47:39 PM »

six

165

The Bike Shop / Re: 3D printed titanium parts

« on: March 17, 2015, 10:20:52 AM »

from 2012; apparently this was his second set, but I don't feel like trying to find pictures of the others right now. 

Laser Sintered Bicycle Crankset

This is an incredibly interesting post about a laser-sintered crankset. New methods & technologies are allowing us to manufacture quicker and easier than ever before!

(Translated from German to English)
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.light-bikes.de%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D19755&edit-text=&act=url

beefier splined/pinchbolted set

All that thought and effort to use a square taper still?!?!?


G.