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Messages - G

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106
The Bike Shop / Re: Surly Cross Check Build
« on: June 06, 2015, 07:25:15 PM »
wear padded lycra shorts under some "normal" athletic, comfortable shorts. sorted.

^^^ This. I just use cheap decathlon ones under old shorts, works fine.

:)
G.

107
The Bike Shop / Re: big boys bike advice.
« on: June 06, 2015, 06:19:46 AM »
So this rack would do? Or would anyone recommend anything?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-super-tourist-dx-fdisc-rear-rack/

Another thing - can someone recommend a decent light that's not massively expensive.

Rack and lights will depend on what you need them for and your budget.

You can get amazing LED lights these days, some will light up a trail well enough to ride fast off road in total darkness, but are way overkill for commuting on lit roads. Personally I like USB rechargeable ones for town. I have Lezyne Hecto Drives right now, and previously had Knog Blinder 4's. I think if I was doing it again I would go with a Hecto for the front and a Blinder 4 for the back. The Hecto rear is as big as the front but has a run time that is about 5 times what it is on the front, which is daft. But there may well be something better than either of these available now. 

:)
G.

108
The Bike Shop / Re: big boys bike advice.
« on: June 05, 2015, 04:49:38 PM »
I'd be keen on new tires, those conti contacts are average but depending on what you're riding you could find something lighter

They are a lot better than what most companies spec on a complete. They are one of the many features that had a lot of thought put into it so that you could just ride the bike straight away without having to replace a bunch of "price-point" parts. Well worth giving them a fair crack before shelling out for new rubber.

:)
G.

109
The Bike Shop / Re: big boys bike advice.
« on: June 04, 2015, 05:26:55 PM »
While that fairdale is a very tempting price I think I may give it a miss.


yeah, i wouldn't do that "Kelly Green" either.   ;D


The £300 saved would buy a fuck-ton of paint though eh?

:)
G.

110
The Bike Shop / Re: s&m hoder or odsy broc grips
« on: June 04, 2015, 05:25:01 PM »
We've totally changed our grip manufacturer and the compounds we use so they should be a lot better than they were a few years ago.

:)
G.

111
The Bike Shop / Re: quick crank questions
« on: June 02, 2015, 05:47:22 PM »
1. No. But you will probably destroy the bearings hammering them apart so be prepared to replace them.

2. Keep turning, with mine the insert always used to start coming out, then stop and the pedal would eventually come out of the insert. A soak in penetrating oil wont hurt too if you haven't already.

3. Not sure I am following your description here, is your left arm on the right and vice-versa? If so, it is usually fine IF the pedals are good and tight, but as soon as a pedal starts coming loose STOP riding it, it will strip out very fast once there is any looseness.

4. Why is there no number four?

:)
G.

112
The Bike Shop / Re: Surly Cross Check Build
« on: June 02, 2015, 05:44:03 AM »
the thing is, riding/exloring/touring on the road (or "all roads" gravel, dirt), you are generally traveling at within a pretty narrow range of speed all things considered. which is where having the cassette with narrower spacing comes in handy. the jumps in gear spacing of 1x drivetrains does not lend its self to the generally steady state style of on road riding very well. unless you're willing to adapt...

it is not such a big deal off road, where i think 1x is fantastic (on city bikes too, if the city is relatively flat) and the larger jumps between gears make sense because you are making a lot more changes in speed and momentum. but on the road i really do not feel it is the best option.

a front mech and associated hardware is very simple to setup and maintain as well. its also extremely good at keeping the chain on the chainring.

The thing is that you started out saying "for fucks sake do not set it up 1x", and went on to justify this by claiming that you would be spinning out all the time; so I pointed out that this was not as bad as you were making out.
Now, you are saying that it is the larger jumps between gears that make this so totally unacceptable, but this is really not as serious as you make out either. There will always be weird jumps on any cassette because you have to change by whole tooth increments; eg. 11 to 12 is a (relatively small) 9% change, while 11 to 13 is a relatively big 18% jump, this is obviously an extreme example but all through the cassette you have this dilemma. Sure you can shift at both ends to mitigate this, but you then have gears that are redundantly close together and the rider has to be experienced and concentrating enough to make use of these. You need to remember what gear you are in and where the next one is.

So I'm sorry, but I think you are being unreasonable in completely dismissing 1x as an option. For someone on a serious touring forum asking about a build to ride across a continent then you might be close to the mark, but for a guy asking in terms of general use, on a BMX forum, who already specified that they would be running flat bars, I think it would be an excellent option to consider.

:)
G.

113
The Bike Shop / Re: Surly Cross Check Build
« on: June 01, 2015, 06:29:47 AM »

for fucks sake do not set it up 1x. with some variation of a 50/36 or 48/34ish crank  and an 11-28/12-27/12-30/12-32 cassette you will have not too much trouble riding over almost anything outside of gnarbo mtb singletrack. and you'll be able to maintain some decent speed on the road without having to spin ur little single ring up to 1842098rpm.


1 x 10 is not that unreasonable a suggestion.

50/36 to a 12-27 is a 3.125 gear range.
11-36 is a 3.27 gear range (so wider).

Yes all your other cassette suggestions are a little wider but they aren't that far off (and there are wider cassettes available if you know you need more range) personally I have never missed those very top end gears.

Depending on terrain and assuming you pick your sizes sensibly it can work just fine.

I would be more worried about efficiency. 1 x 10 has a fairly big issue with chain angle and I DO worry about the very poor chainline in low gears giving reduced efficiency just when you least want to sacrifice it (slogging up hills). However, having been running 1 x 10 for a while (and coming from a negative bias towards it initially) I have been totally won over.

Losing a shifter, a mech, a cable, clattering chain, dropped chain and just having one lever to shift is so nice that it makes up for any downside.

:)
G.

114
The Lounge / Re: Vapes?
« on: May 31, 2015, 03:58:11 PM »
Congratulations on giving up doing something mind bendingly stupid and replacing it with something only mildly shitty... maybe with time you will have enough will power to quit that too...

:)
G.

Coming from someone who posted a pic of themselves riding MTBs without a helmet, I think you just proved we all have wildly varying ideas of "mind bendingly stupid".

Obvious Troll is obvious... Suffice to say that wearing a helmet is not as black and white as you make out, and if you want to discuss it more then resurrect the old helmet thread and do it there...

:)
G.

115
The Bike Shop / Re: stock stem woes
« on: May 31, 2015, 06:28:00 AM »
Just clean the crap off the stem (I assume it isn't really painted on the clamp area?) but clean as much as the paint as you can out of the knurling on the bars. Use stripper rather than abrasives if you can, or failing that scrape the grooves with a blade.

:)
G.

116
The Lounge / Re: Vapes?
« on: May 31, 2015, 06:24:44 AM »
Congratulations on giving up doing something mind bendingly stupid and replacing it with something only mildly shitty... maybe with time you will have enough will power to quit that too...

:)
G.

117
The Bike Shop / Re: big boys bike advice.
« on: May 30, 2015, 05:09:37 PM »
I probably won't be using it when its bad weather if I'm honest but will probably get caught out.

Im not that keen on building something up as I have no idea what's compatible with what.

Just buy that weekender I linked to. As long as you are looking for a large that is a ridiculous bargain, the shop will be making a fairly large loss on it at that price and I doubt it will be there long (tempted to buy it myself as its less than I could get one for even working for them!) If you dont buy that you are going to end up paying twice that (your full budget) for something similar. At half price you will have £300 left to play with on guards and a rack of you need them, and personally I would upgrade it to hydraulic brakes (SLX probably) and you would have yourself a great bike.

:)
G.

118
The Bike Shop / Re: big boys bike advice.
« on: May 28, 2015, 05:08:05 PM »
Are you going to be riding it year round and regardless of rain etc? Do you need to take "stuff" with you? If so I would look for something with space for mudguards and a rack, disc brakes would be a plus. Maybe even an Alfine hub gear.
How do you feel about drop or flat bars?

You could easily get a Fairdale Weekender for that, or just get frame and fork and build it up how you like, that's a pretty decent budget.

If you didn't want a product I am associated with Genesis do something that might fit the bill I think its the Day One but the disc alfine version would be a little over your budget.

Personally I would probably try to build something up from the Weekender frameset which there are some good deals on floating about, stick flat bars on and Shimano MTB bits to get 1 by 10 and hydraulic discs... Was looking for the frame but actually stumbled on this which is a crazy bargain http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/urban-bikes-c4/hybrid-rigid-c30/fairdale-weekender-og-hybrid-bike-2013-p784

:)
G.


119
The Bike Shop / Re: Keychain woes?
« on: May 27, 2015, 05:37:39 AM »
Quick question

Ive only got a park CT7 chain breaker and the adapter does not fit. Can I just use the CT7 pin to rlove links?

https://youtu.be/ohcbhDwkt0s

:)
G.

120
The Lounge / Re: Post Internet Funnies
« on: May 27, 2015, 05:32:02 AM »

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