Messages

46

The Lounge / Re: Standard Shaman Ox, 2005 era

« on: May 26, 2016, 09:25:28 AM »

i used to buy tyres by the half dozen, and generally they get to about this stage before i replaced one - sometimes even worse. the bike parts were generally ridden to death. The pegs are called Bizhouse, they use rubber plumber rings for grip - after a while they cracked and fall off one by one, i bought like 50 extras but never put them on when the old ones fell off. the forks were odyssey minimal offset, the lugs were hacked off shortly after i took off the front brake.


a better picture. i spray painted the spokes individually before i laced the wheel, it took forever. The chris king headset had a FSA mod done, taught by the legendary Sheepdog. I learned so much from the man.
The stickers were about 4-5 layers thick, which means NONE of the bottom layer shows. i guess it's good for holding the frame up from any cracks/ catastrophic failure. looking at it now, the snafu seatpost is so. fucking. long. (it reaches all the way to the BB)


i also bought grips 6 pairs at a time (Ody jimmy levans, they were comfy) and i rode till they are completely worn off my bars before i put new ones on. the bends of the bars get some paint chips and rust which cut my hands, the sensible thing to do was obviously putting some tape over them. See the huge barends? they're oversized full steel ones to help you learn hitchhikers easier (by letting the barends scraped the ground). They weigh about one bike each.
The ody zero offset forks had removable lugs, and it's just a little hole. a spider lived in there i'm pretty sure - i used to see it hanging around my front wheel once in a while.
The seatpost started to rust from my ass sweat. just dont touch it and you'll be fine.

47

The Lounge / Standard Shaman Ox, 2004 era

« on: May 26, 2016, 09:25:13 AM »

this post is purely for nostalgia, bikes were so clunky and heavy back in the days! (Sorry for big pictures, no idea how to resize them. actually i do, i think. fuck you.)
EDIT: pictures resized because i'm cool like that


back in 2004/2005 in the hong kong summer. 33'c (that's around 92'f) with 98% (no joke) humidity. i used to go thru 4 litres of water, two full sized towels every 3 hour night session. now i get a heatstroke just looking at the picture.


RNC 30t full titanium sprocket, Gsport homer with ody 13t freewheel. primo comet tyres, original steelwire bead version. (i LOVED those)
Demolition nunchuck pegs (i think) - early era of plastic pegs with a metal sleeve. The ends of the peg crimp in like a motherfucker since i slam them into the ground a lot, making it impossible to put the huge ass-socket (21mm) in to turn the big fuckoff Gsport homer hub bolts. after a few times of filing the inner sleeve for socket clearance, i decided to just saw off the crimped bits whenever i needed socket access.
other parts seen: Gsport homer hub with 13t ody freewheel, 48s 4x interlaced under the 3rd (a la Gsport George) to araya RBJ1 rim. snafu 4130 seatpost bottomed out on the BB, i didn't cut it because i wasn't bothered about weight. Primo Pentagon seat (heavyduty version of hemerroid) with the cover re-done about a dozen times in total from wearing out. the rails were quite bent and rusty but it comes with the sweat of riding in such humidity/heat.

48

The Bike Shop / Re: odyssey clutch: clicking noise when I stop pedaling

« on: May 26, 2016, 09:02:47 AM »

ediot, please post the yellow Standard. I never get sick of seeing that bike

unfortunately i didn't take good care of archiving old photos, a lot of old ones are lost. i've just dug threw my old harddisks and found some shit quality pictures at bad angles, but it'd be fun to post them up i guess. i'm starting a new thread for it in the lounge.

49

The Bike Shop / Re: Loose BB shell

« on: May 26, 2016, 08:57:06 AM »

take everything out, spray the bb with water/leave the bike outside for a few nights. add salt if you need to. let it rust a little, and then see how easy it is to put the bearings in...

what could go wrong?

not water. use vinegar. bonus points if its greasy vinegar from your chips.

50

The Bike Shop / Re: odyssey clutch: clicking noise when I stop pedaling

« on: May 22, 2016, 06:39:13 PM »

that suggests the noise comes from something disengaging. if the clutch mechanism is 'sticky' this may happen, which just requires a cleaning

however, more things happen when you stop pedalling - chain loses the tension from your weight, rear cog no longer 'pulling' the hub to spin the wheel, etc. these can all make a noise potentially.

if you take off your chain and turn the rear cog by hand, can you replicate the noise? did any of your mates put a tiny steel ball bearing in your frame just to fuck with you? how worn is the sprocket/chain/rear cog? there're many things possible, need some narrowing down to the hub.

what does the noise sound like? a ping? a twang? click? is there a crack on the hub body?

51

The Bike Shop / Re: odyssey clutch: clicking noise when I stop pedaling

« on: May 22, 2016, 06:26:38 PM »

can you describe it more? is it one single click everytime you stop pedalling (and the wheel is rolling)? is it a constant 'ping, ping, ping'?

how long have you ridden the coaster, and when have you last cleaned out the clutch? (i mean the actual engagment mechanism)

52

The Bike Shop / Re: Loose BB shell

« on: May 22, 2016, 06:23:53 PM »

get a can of coke, then put it down the toilet to clean the bowl (much better than drinking that syrupy poison). clean the can and cut it open, use a stripe of aluminium cut from the can as a shim, whilst you start looking at your next frame.

a well shimmed BB could still last you a while.

53

The Lounge / Re: New Random Thoughts Thread

« on: March 08, 2016, 01:04:44 AM »

The ones in space used to provide gravity on ship though?

to maintain constant gravity in space, the spaceship needs to continuously accelerate its spin....

54

The Lounge / Re: New Random Thoughts Thread

« on: February 28, 2016, 05:27:58 AM »

In the old days you would have shared the photo with us.

i would expect no less than a shaky underlit landscape video filmed in portrait

55

The Lounge / Re: Post your Car/Truck/Motor Vehicle V2.0

« on: February 28, 2016, 05:11:47 AM »

yes i do have a charger installed at home at the carpark, which makes driving the car a joy. like most batteries, it's not good to always have it charged full/ fully depleted. there is a setting in the car (or via phone app) to set how full to charge the car, i've set mine to around 75% full, which gives 300km (190 miles) range. Since i got this car, however, i drive like a cunt. flooring every take off/ exiting corners followed by heavy braking just before a turn etc and mostly in the city with lots of traffic and lights, so i get around 220 km (140miles) range driving like that. i still haven't driven more than 100km (60miles) in a day, and to be honest, i haven't paid any attention to remaining range a week after i got my car. i have driven it gently, and it does go the range it says it has.

The wall charger that comes with the car (which you install at your own costs but its super easy for electricians, since it comes with a full manual that's super simple to understand) provides single phase 40amp at 220v (its adjustable to your needs) which gives 25 miles of range every hour of charge. you can schedule your car to only charge at times when electricity is cheap at night etc. The installation of the charger costed me USD 1.2k, including a thick gauge armoured copper wire at 10 metres long, from my electrical box to the location of charger, and a metal box to "protect" the charger. it's completely necessary as it turns out, that charging the car in heavy rain doesn't affect it at all. yes, my car and the charger are outdoor.

i've paid about USD 35 or so in extra electricity for the car per month, instead of the USD 380 in petrol i used to. and i used to drive the petrol car like riding brakeless i.e. gentle acceleration, lots of coasting, early gentle braking etc. but now, going down the road to the corner shop is an excuse to hop in the tesla. and i floor it every excuse i get.

the new one called model 3 is priced at USD 35k, but it isn't just targeting that segment of the market. a majority of new model S owners (myself included) actually moved wayyyyy up from price tags we'd normally consider (my petrol car is an audi A4, its less than half the price of the tesla i got. And it turns out i'm not an outlier but rather a majority), and i wouldn't be surprised if model 3 experiences the same. oil is cheap now so that argument isn't as strong, but a lot of people are just waiting for a good vehicle to escape oil dependency anyway.

if you guys have a tesla store nearby, go arrange a test drive. they're VERY happy letting people who have no intention to buy the car to test drive it - their marketing basically revolves around letting people try out the car and get excited to tell people about it, it's just that fucking good.

56

The Lounge / Re: Post your Car/Truck/Motor Vehicle V2.0

« on: February 26, 2016, 10:01:29 AM »

Very nice. Does your spit already have hookup for it?

what's that in english?

57

The Lounge / Re: Post your Car/Truck/Motor Vehicle V2.0

« on: February 25, 2016, 11:32:17 AM »

nothing interesting since my car is stock, just doing a shoutout for my mate James in london (UK)


shit's in the way, yo

58

The Lounge / Re: New Random Thoughts Thread

« on: February 25, 2016, 06:26:38 AM »

broke my wallet buying a tesla, doing a shout out for my man down in London (UK) with his tattoo shop



shit's in the way, yo

59

The Bike Shop / Re: Remember how a few arm-chair engineers called this out? Well who'd a thunk it..

« on: February 17, 2016, 02:30:20 PM »

Can you hazard an approximate numerical value for "a shit ton"? Only for my own or others curiosity.

a metric shit ton is about a ball-hair more than a fuckload.

i hope that helps.

60

The Bike Shop / Re: Marmoset hub replacement parts

« on: February 15, 2016, 10:11:55 AM »

assuming the alu hub guard is now glued to the end of the axle and the bearing that needs replacing, i think you can hammer the axle out of the hub from the other side. with the axle out, there're a few things you could consider:

1. dunk the axle/hub guard/bearing combo in a bowl of WD-40 and hope that the WD-40 can seep into between the hub guard and axle, although i'm not optimistic of the outcome. the bearing will get rekt but your aim is to replace it anyway.

2. if you hold the axle with the guard on top (like its an open umbrella), you could rest the hub guard in a vice using it as support, put a bolt into the hold on top of the axle and use gentle persuasion via a big fuck off hammer. since you're hitting onto the axle directly, there shouldn't be sideway impact like you would if you were to try to hit the hub guard off the axle.

to protect the axle threads, i find it best to use a spacer (NOT A WASHER) under the bolt head (i.e. between the bolt head and the axle). this small spacer needs to be of a smaller diameter than the inner of the bearing so that it doesn't stop against the bearing. with the spacer in place, do up the bolt semi tight (make sure the bolt is long enough to no less than 5 threads in the axle. i don't know the actual safe number, but i wouldn't want less than that), then wack it hard while chanting "i will use anti seize between metal parts" over and over