Bikeguide.org - Bike maintenance for BMX'ers
The Street => The Bike Shop => Common Questions and former stickies. => Topic started by: Tubes6al4v on December 21, 2006, 08:25:05 PM
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So, I just pulled my bike apart at work, and I ran out of some of my lubes, so I am deciding on what to get next. Here is what I use, post up your favorites and least favorites.
Grease:
Park Tools T-1000 - Good assembly grese. Not all that smooth though. Feels like it adds quite a bit of lag to the parts.
Pedro's Velo - Smooth, vinilla sented, and stays put. Good for most purposes. Can add some resistance to bearings though.
Phil Wood Waterproof - Long lasting, fairly smooth. And deffinitly prevents corrosion.
Rock 'n' Roll Super Web - Stays put. Forms a good bond. It feels a little more slugish on clutches and bearings though.
Pro Gold EPX Lithium - Very long lasting in bearings and makes the bearings last longer themselves. Makes them spin pretty fast. Doesnt work very well on other pieces.
Automotive Brake Bearing Grease - Heavy, Smooth, and Sluggish. Basically all I can say to describe this.
Lubricants:
Tri-flo (Teflon) - This is the favorite of many bike shops. It is easy to apply, but can get dirty and messy easily. The teflon does make it smooth though. Just watch your pants legs on chains.
Krylon (Krytox Wax) - Gunky. It works smooth and lasts long on chains and lube. But can be pretty difficult to apply correctly.
White Lightening (Wax) - Great for cables. Smooth, dries nicely. Some people complain of added drag because of the wax. This can be remidied by taking a little more time when applying. Can work in a few other applications as well.
White Lightening Epic (Silicone) - Smooth, fast, and silicone. It feels real nice on chains. Does not get them very dirty, can be friendlier to apply than it's wax counterpart.
Pedro's SynLube - Fast, smooth. Doesn't really bond well to the metals though.
Pedro's Ice Wax - Fast for wax based. Messy to apply, but it gets into the crevices and coats everything. Wears down somewhat faster.
Phil Wood Tenasious Oil - Very Thick for oils. Stays put, is sticky, and smooth. But adds quite a bit of resistance.
Rock 'n' Roll Extreme - Fast for chains. Ok for cables, but not the best.
Rock 'n' Roll Gold - Faster than the extreme, but does not stay put as easily.
Rock 'n' Roll Cable Magic - On order right now, very excited to try.
Anti-Sieze:
Finish Line Ti Prep - Great. Widely used, does the job wonderfully. It is copper based.
Misc Anti-sieze - Silver in color. It needs to be mixed first. Works well, Haven't had issues with seizing.
Metal Prep:
White Lightening Metal Prep - The best I have used. Desolves almost anything right away. Cleans metals amazingly. Works great on rims.
Finish Line Speed Degreaser - Works fast, but not as clean as the White Lightening.
Ok, This has taken a while to write, so Let's here from you all.
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man you put a lotof time into that i can tell, there's so many people(beginners) out there that ride who don't even bother to lubricate there chain or use grease when installing parts. it makes a huge difference
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man you put a lotof time into that i can tell, there's so many people(beginners) out there that ride who don't even bother to lubricate there chain or use grease when installing parts. it makes a huge difference
Yeah, the shop is boring as hell. I screwed myself out of a lot of parts when I first started riding by not using the correct lubes. It makes a big difference in the feel of the bike.
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chain - whie lightining
threads - random grease or ti prep
bearings - slick honey
i just random grease for assembly lube (Metal to metal contact areas).
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what's the preferred lub for brake cables? grease? lub with teflon? thin oil?
i've never tried thin-oil,but cables with grease and teflon felt the same. so, please correct me. thanks.
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oh yea, thanks for putting up this post. lubs et al have been underrated.
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what's the preferred lub for brake cables? grease? lub with teflon? thin oil?
i've never tried thin-oil,but cables with grease and teflon felt the same. so, please correct me. thanks.
the best thing i have found is purple extreme.
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phil wood grease and tri-flow lube are all i will ever need
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Wal-Mart Supertech Marine gease. Its awesome.
Pedros Dry
White Lighning Wet
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I use: whatever anti-seize dad has around in the shop. Tri-flow for my chain. Grease from a grease gun for my cassette.
EDIT: I used to think that you never needed to do anything with your chain, as I had never done anything to my 410 in 1.5 years, so when I got my 510 I did nothing to it. and like 3 months ago something in my drivetrain would squeak really loud and I just assumed it was my bb. Well I took my chain off today to put some grease on my driver (WAY too loud, sounded like a fucking train) and I was handling my chain and realized that was what was squeaking. So I let it soak in Tri-Flow for 3 hours and now my bike is super quiet and I love it.
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Tri-Flow- in a spray can and a little bottle. Spray works good on derailleur pivots and brake pivots, and the little bottle for cables.
Boeshield T9- For chains. Drip it on while backpedaling, then wipe off the excess.
Finish Line Anti-Seize- Big Tub for certain ti and al parts.
Tacx Carbon Asm Paste- for carbon seatposts.
Baby Powder- For tubes and your nuts on hot days.
Pedro's Syn grease- A big tub for general purpose. I don't like the Park or Phil Wood grease, this is smoother and they change its color every once in a while.
Pedro's Syn lube- I only use this to mix with the Syn grease to get different consistencies.
water- Keep a spray bottle of water on hand to quickly wipe my hands down.
Dazzle- Works alright as a general cleaner for benchtops and stuff.
alcohol- A big bottle from CVS with a spray top put on. Works good for a final cleaning to remove residue from other cleaners. Its also fun to spray on bugs and when I need to light something on fire, because it won't make any smoke or smell.
Pedro's shopworks and Simple Green- I fill up a spray bottle with one or the other of these to clean nasty shit off rims and bikes, and scum off the floor.
Super Penetrant- duh.
Park cutting oil- Thats just what we have sitting by the vises and spoke cutter. I haven't really tried much other cutting fluids.
Zep 45- I don't use this much as it reminds me of death.
Pedro's Oranj Peelz- Doesn't seem to do a whole lot, but it smells ok.
Loctite 242, 262, 680- from mild to wild.
White Lightning Clean Streak Metal Prep- Like tubes said, this stuff is pretty cool. It evaporates very fast and leaves no residue. Kind of like a tough alcohol.
Park Chainbrite- Works about as well as the Oranj Peelz, but doesn't smell good.
Motorex Prep M- Pack it up pack it in. Stuff that shit in suspension seals.
Slick Honey- Also works for suspension, but the syringes it comes it are even more useful for injecting and removing fork oil with a hose on the end.
King RingDrive Lube- For the buzz.
Wheelsmith Spokeprep- For spoke threads.
DT Swiss Spoke Freeze- To lock spokes if needed.
Dualco grease guns- One with a short nozzle filled with Prep M, and one with a long nozzle filled with Syn grease.
JP Weigle's Frame Saver- For steel frames.
Goof Off- To remove sticker residue, permanent marker, paint, glue. It works really well but is very potent.
Thats what I have at my bench at the moment.
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i've got some finish line grease and some gt85. good for pretty much everything.
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Finishline Wet XC Lube - Perfect fro chians and the insides of hubs.
Finishline Dry XC Lube -
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white lightning buddddy! i really really really neew to pull my bike apart, grease it up, clean it, i have so much fucked up shit on my bike as of now.
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BG-SS2000 Miracle grease for all parts. Works well for bearings, cranks, axles, pedals, headsets. Very thick, and very easy to apply. Works well for thread cutting too.
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chain - whie lightining
threads - random grease or ti prep
bearings - slick honey
i just random grease for assembly lube (Metal to metal contact areas).
I was thinking of getting that slick honey, how do you like it? Is it fast?
what's the preferred lub for brake cables? grease? lub with teflon? thin oil?
i've never tried thin-oil,but cables with grease and teflon felt the same. so, please correct me. thanks.
Usually wax lubes are prefered, as they stay put and do not accumulate dirt and grime as easily in cables.
the best thing i have found is purple extreme.
Who is that from? How does it compare to white lightening?
Wal-Mart Supertech Marine gease. Its awesome.
Pedros Dry
White Lighning Wet
How is the dry lube? I have heard it is reallly noisy, but I am a little interested in testing it on other parts...
Finishline Wet XC Lube - Perfect fro chians and the insides of hubs.
Finishline Dry XC Lube -
How do you like their dry lube?
*** Question *** Synthetic Vs. Natural. Which do you prefer and why?
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Grease[/i][/u]:
- Phil Wood Grease: Works well for everything. Spindles, axles, nuts, whatever.
Lube[/i][/u]:
- Rock 'N Roll Extreme: Works well for my chains, with regular lubing (once a week) my chain has never squeeked, rattled, or clanked. Half lube/wax formula.
Anti-Seize[/i][/u]:
- Finish Line Ti Prep: Works great. Used on Wombolts, Elementary, and the fork's compression bolt. No seizing so far. Copper-based.
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Tri-Flow- in a spray can and a little bottle. Spray works good on derailleur pivots and brake pivots, and the little bottle for cables.
Boeshield T9- For chains. Drip it on while backpedaling, then wipe off the excess. How do you like this? Is is silent, fast, solid?
Finish Line Anti-Seize- Big Tub for certain ti and al parts.
Tacx Carbon Asm Paste- for carbon seatposts. I've been wanting to try this. Is it working well for you?
Baby Powder- For tubes and your nuts on hot days.
Pedro's Syn grease- A big tub for general purpose. I don't like the Park or Phil Wood grease, this is smoother and they change its color every once in a while.
Pedro's Syn lube- I only use this to mix with the Syn grease to get different consistencies.
water- Keep a spray bottle of water on hand to quickly wipe my hands down.
Dazzle- Works alright as a general cleaner for benchtops and stuff.
alcohol- A big bottle from CVS with a spray top put on. Works good for a final cleaning to remove residue from other cleaners. Its also fun to spray on bugs and when I need to light something on fire, because it won't make any smoke or smell.
Pedro's shopworks and Simple Green- I fill up a spray bottle with one or the other of these to clean nasty shit off rims and bikes, and scum off the floor.
Super Penetrant- duh.
Park cutting oil- Thats just what we have sitting by the vises and spoke cutter. I haven't really tried much other cutting fluids.
Zep 45- I don't use this much as it reminds me of death.What is it?
Pedro's Oranj Peelz- Doesn't seem to do a whole lot, but it smells ok.
Loctite 242, 262, 680- from mild to wild.
White Lightning Clean Streak Metal Prep- Like tubes said, this stuff is pretty cool. It evaporates very fast and leaves no residue. Kind of like a tough alcohol.
Park Chainbrite- Works about as well as the Oranj Peelz, but doesn't smell good.
Motorex Prep M- Pack it up pack it in. Stuff that shit in suspension seals.
Slick Honey- Also works for suspension, but the syringes it comes it are even more useful for injecting and removing fork oil with a hose on the end.
King RingDrive Lube- For the buzz.
Wheelsmith Spokeprep- For spoke threads. Does it work like lock tite, or is it more adjustable?
DT Swiss Spoke Freeze- To lock spokes if needed. Basically locktite.
Dualco grease guns- One with a short nozzle filled with Prep M, and one with a long nozzle filled with Syn grease.
JP Weigle's Frame Saver- For steel frames.
Goof Off- To remove sticker residue, permanent marker, paint, glue. It works really well but is very potent.
Thats what I have at my bench at the moment.
Another thing that is great is Phil Wood Hand Cleaner. Works wonders for dry, greasy hands.
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Finishline Synthetic grease with Dupont Teflon- I like it a lot better then park grease. It has little to no scent it works great as a all purpose grease for anything that needs it. I also used it to sub as ti prep and it was just fine. i have a 3.5oz tube and I've been useing it for a good year and a half and serviced my bike as well as a few friends. All around good grease
White lightning - I use it on my cables and chain. IMO it's so so. When ever I use it on my chain it usaly rubs off on my jeans after a good days ride and it wears out fast. For cables it isn't so good nor is it so bad. I've had a couple of cables clog up from it and yes it was a new bottle and i did shake it for more then 10 mins before useing it.
Triflow spray lube - I havent used it a lot except for my chain and freewheel so i can't say much. It does silent chains though and does a good job killing the squeek from door hinges :D
EDIT
Wheelsmith Spokeprep- For spoke threads. Does it work like lock tite, or is it more adjustable?
It basicly is something that makes lacing the wheel and trueing it later a breeze. So basicly more adjustable.
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I have found that, on the whole, I dont really like teflon. It is all nice and smooth, but it gets a little messy, and doesnt feel quite solid enough for me. I have teflon grease here, so I may give it another chance...
Oh, and it is poisenous. So it sucks on cookware.
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I use Orange Solid Oil. Works amazing for everything.
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Boeshield T9- For chains. Drip it on while backpedaling, then wipe off the excess. How do you like this? Is is silent, fast, solid?
Tacx Carbon Asm Paste- for carbon seatposts. I've been wanting to try this. Is it working well for you?
Zep 45- I don't use this much as it reminds me of death.What is it?
Wheelsmith Spokeprep- For spoke threads. Does it work like lock tite, or is it more adjustable?
DT Swiss Spoke Freeze- To lock spokes if needed. Basically locktite.
The Boeshield T9 is the best. Check it out.
The carbon paste works well, although I don't know of much else you would want to put on carbon/carbon.
(http://www.swedetechracingengines.com/parts_accessories/pictures/zep45nc_190x220-034.jpg)
http://www.zep.com/ProductCatalog/ProductBrowse.asp?img=products§ion=189&subSection=973&superSection=23&pageNumber=6
The spoke prep is for building wheels. It's not like loc-tite.
The spokefreeze was indeed "Developed in conjunction with Loctite."
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The spoke prep is for building wheels. It's not like loc-tite.
The spokefreeze was indeed "Developed in conjunction with Loctite."
Many people use locktite to build wheels. The Idea is to prevent the spokes from loosening. Unfortunatly, it can give a false sense of tightness. That is why I asked about the Wheelsmith.
The DT Stuff is basically just mild strength locktite. I have used it in place of lock tite before. It has the same disadvantages.
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I was thinking of getting that slick honey, how do you like it? Is it fast?
Who is that from? How does it compare to white lightening?
slich honey is pretty fast. feels almost like a thick oil. can't speek to well about pertection cuz i haven't had it in anything long. it'd be awsome for headsets.
http://www.purpleextreme.com/
slides alot better then white lighting. sucks on chains but awsome in cables. have to reapply more often then white lightning.
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lolz@this thread
i use oil for the chain and cables, and thick stuff for everything else. you must be a real pro to use all that stuff?
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I'm looking at this thread and I'm looking at the rusty bolts on my stem and now I'm clicking the previous page button a few times.
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I just throw Pedros Ice-wax into everything, except my seat and steertube. Hubs roll smooth. Headset too.
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I use a big tube of grease I stole from work. It's used for greasing pivot points on heavy machinery, so I don't think it's all too tech.
I was always partial to dripping some triflow down my cable housing.
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i like my dry white lightning in cables.
as for hubs and everything, i use a 10 year old bucket of multipurpose grease in a tub from canadian tire. gets the job done. no problems as of yet. plus its green, so it looks alot better then that icky yellow stuff.
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Use linseed oil on spokes when building a wheel.Its sticky when it dries.
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Use linseed oil on spokes when building a wheel.Its sticky when it dries.
I have used linseed oil on quite a few spokes. It is nice. it sets up well and does not dry like some other ones, so re-trueing is much more comfortable, and higher tensions are achieved with less strain on both your hands and the nipples, spokes, and rims.
i like my dry white lightning in cables.
as for hubs and everything, i use a 10 year old bucket of multipurpose grease in a tub from canadian tire. gets the job done. no problems as of yet. plus its green, so it looks alot better then that icky yellow stuff.
General Grease is good. if that is what you are using, then consider yourself covered. The advantage of moving to some performance grease is to change the feeling of parts (or in some cases how it holds).
Using any type of grease (even Bacon grease) is better than nothing at all...
I just throw Pedros Ice-wax into everything, except my seat and steertube. Hubs roll smooth. Headset too.
Ice wax is nice and fast. Unfortunatly, because it is wax based, it does not protect metal from shock loads as well. This is something that you must weigh when deciding on your grease. Right now, I am running my bearings without inner seals, so I needed a sticky grease. It actually turned out smoother. And it will help protect the bearings a little bit better than thin lube/wax.
lolz@this thread
i use oil for the chain and cables, and thick stuff for everything else. you must be a real pro to use all that stuff?
I like to mess around with little things on my bike. I do work at a bike shop, so I see these lubes and grease used for other things (such as long ass MTB and Road rides). It is facinating to see all the differences that can be made by simply changing some ingrediants...
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so would i want to use metal prep on a chain with stubborn pins that im trying to take apart?
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i think most bike lube is a waste of time. the best you can hope for is to keep whatever part you're lubing free of dirt and corrosion. cables being the exception.
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is car braking fluid good for anything? thats all I got
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Brake cleaner? if so, then it can be used for putting on grips, I believe it dries fast.
I just use Phil Wood grease or Phil's Tenacious Oil.
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all i use is a sketchy barrel of grease i found in a abandond building from 1982 works great
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so would i want to use metal prep on a chain with stubborn pins that im trying to take apart?
Not really, that is more of a cleaner. I would say use a penetrant first (like WD-40 or something else) then use the cleaner to get it nice and clean. And finally lube it.
i think most bike lube is a waste of time. the best you can hope for is to keep whatever part you're lubing free of dirt and corrosion. cables being the exception.
Silence is a beautiful thing. Lubing you chain prevents creaking. Greasing your brake posts prevents that squeeling. And What about bearings? Grease and lube is your friend... as long as you want your bike to last.
is car braking fluid good for anything? thats all I got
That is usually hydraulic fluid, which will not work all that well. Invest in some good lube.
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I use this tub of black grease I bought 5 years ago as assembly grease.
I use a real thin oil on my cable and brake posts.
I need to get more White Lightning or something for my chain. Starting to squeak like hell.
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This is what I have at my bench at work.
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You guys make it too complicated.
All you really need is:
Phil Wood grease
White Lightening for chain and cables
Ti-prep for anti-seize
I use White Lightening on spoke nipples only when truing, but nothing when building if I use DT or Gsport spokes and nipples.
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This is what I have at my bench at work.
I do not even use that much on my cars.
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is car braking fluid good for anything? thats all I got
Yeah, it takes off paint.
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you must be a real pro to use all that stuff?
No reason to use that much.
Pro or not.
i think most bike lube is a waste of time. the best you can hope for is to keep whatever part you're lubing free of dirt and corrosion. cables being the exception.
Use dry lube on the cables (like White Lightening), keeps them dirt free.
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Any grease is better than none.
Any anti-seize is better than none, even grease is better than nothing.
Chains and cables, wet lube is ok, but dry lube is far better in the long run.
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I'm going to be doing a bike rebuild soon because I just picked up a new frame and some parts.
I work at a bike/snowboard shop, and lube is the one thing I've never been spot on with.
I have these at my disposal. Where and if at all should I use them and what is the best for each application?:
-Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
-Permatex Anti-Seize Lube
-Permatex Blue Thread Locker
-Tri-Flow Teflon Super Lube (in can) (very little left)
-Finish Line Premium Synthetic Grease (in 4lb bucket)
-Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube (in bottle)
-Finish Line Ti-Prep (small applicator - came with wombolts)
-White Lightning Wax Lube (in bottle)
-White Lightning Clean Streak Metal Prep Cleaner (in can)
-Castrol Chain Lube (in can)
-Kuu Bio-Citron Base Cleaner (in 1l can) (although used as wax remover, I find it is an excellent metal cleaner)
Bike Setup:
-Mid BB
-Regular HeadTube
-Solid Headset
-Nokon Cable
-Wombolts
-Primo E-Brake
-Sealed Solemates
-Race Fork
edit: i've used Phil Wood Grease, and Sheep, I actually picked it up after you "praised" it in the last thread like this, unfortunately I'm all out. Should I get more or is the Finish Line Grease I have so much of at work suffictient?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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i've used Phil Wood Grease, and Sheep, I actually picked it up after you "praised" it in the last thread like this, unfortunately I'm all out. Should I get more or is the Finish Line Grease I have so much of at work suffictient?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Finish Line is not as good in my opinion. I did my Profile cassette bearings with it, and was not impressed. Seemed awefully thin and did not last.
I would get more if you can. The stuff lasts a long time if you go easy on it. Most people use way too much grease.
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Finish Line is not as good in my opinion. I did my Profile cassette bearings with it, and was not impressed. Seemed awefully thin and did not last.
I would get more if you can. The stuff lasts a long time if you go easy on it. Most people use way too much grease.
ok, so i looked into some more Phil Wood Grease. I'll probably use it on bearing applications like the headset and in actual bearings... but as for say, bb assembly and bolts and seat post would you suggest the finishline, which i have more of, or the spray-can of tri-flow?
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I agree that finish line grease is a bit thin - washes out of bearings too easily.
I'm currently using MAKT suspension fork grease in everything. Used it in a headest when I ran out of other grease and it worked really well (stays in place and doesn't seem to degrade as badly as finish line). Nice blue colour also, if that matters to you?
Tend to use 3in1 oil in cables, that or finish line XC wet lube, whichever I find first in the cellar. For my chain I go for wet lube and wipe off the excess after it's had a while to seep in. On the mountain bike I tend to do the chain and cables with GT85 before and after a ride because its quick, easy and very cheap.
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You guys make it too complicated.
All you really need is:
White Lightening for chain and cables
Sheep, which White Ligtning is it? Self-Cleaning Wax Lub, or Epic?
and what does ORM-D mean?
thanks.
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You guys make it too complicated.
All you really need is:
White Lightening for chain and cables
Sheep, which White Ligtning is it? Self-Cleaning Wax Lub, or Epic?
and what does ORM-D mean?
thanks.
The regular White Lightinging (self cleaning) is what he was refering to. Epic is a nice chain lube, but stay put as well as the regular.
ORM-D is some sort of classification of lube that (according with federal law) cannot be shipped over air.
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Sheep, which White Ligtning is it? Self-Cleaning Wax Lub, or Epic?
thanks.
Self-Cleaning Wax
Epic stays wet (I think).
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thanks for the advice .
the mail-order website ran out of stock phil wood grease. what's the next best waterproof grease option? is tri-flow's synthetic grease with teflon a good substitute? (edit: what about Motorex PrepM?)
unsure if this mentioned in previous threads; what's white grease? what are they meant for? (edit: is it the same as silicone grease? i've tried the wikipedia)
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thanks for the advice .
the mail-order website ran out of stock phil wood grease. what's the next best waterproof grease option? is tri-flow's synthetic grease with teflon a good substitute? (edit: what about Motorex PrepM?)
unsure if this mentioned in previous threads; what's white grease? what are they meant for? (edit: is it the same as silicone grease? i've tried the wikipedia)
White grease is a thinner grease based on lithium usually.
Call the local shop about Phil Wood, many carry it.
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lolz@this thread
(http://www.stuckatwork.com/smileys/grinyes.gif)
F1 and NASA don't use as many different brand lubricants as some of these kids.:big:
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(http://www.stuckatwork.com/smileys/grinyes.gif)
F1 and NASA don't use as many different brand lubricants as some of these kids.:big:
Some people don't simply want their bike to "just work". I want mine to feel a specific way. I also enjoy experimenting around with the different types of lubes that are available.
I am sure that NASA and F1 research groups have run through many more lubes than almost all bikers. Boeing could find a lube that was suitable (in all the tests they ran) so they produced their own...
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Some people don't simply want their bike to "just work". I want mine to feel a specific way. I also enjoy experimenting around with the different types of lubes that are available.
I am sure that NASA and F1 research groups have run through many more lubes than almost all bikers. Boeing could find a lube that was suitable (in all the tests they ran) so they produced their own...
Yes, but you only have a couple different surfaces on a bike and this is not rocket science. All bearings are roughly the same size and type, most metal to metal contact is one of 2 metals usually.
3 or 4 lubricants should cover everything.
There is no need to do a Nasa style testing of lubes. Most have been tried and tested many times already for our application. It is a bike, not a rocket going into uncharted territory.
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A bit more about chain and cable lubricants.
While many still do it, lubing your chain and cables with a oil based lubricant is archaic. It is messy and just collects dirt, which means you are just wet sanding your chain, especially when you have guys drowning their chains in oil. You can walk up to my chain, grab it, and not get more than a bit dusty. Still runs perfectly smooth, and in fact the wax, will absorb the dirt and keep it from grinding away at the metal. Remember, chains have no protection from dirt.
Sram/Sedisport used to make a chain lube that was a block of wax that you melted into a pain, and after a good solvent cleaning, you soaked the chain in the wax, best chain lube ever. Last I saw their chains still came from the factory lubed that way and are known for their smoothness.
Pour the right type of wax onto a chain and you can watch the chain tighten up as it fills in all the gaps, creating smooth bearing surfaces again. Very cool to see, and even better to feel afterwards.
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As far as greasing bearings in wheels and whatnot, should I put grease on the axle, or is there anywhere else I should put grease?
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to be honest, if you're not educated about grease too well, you could just follow with these basic guidelines. some might disagree with me, but you have to understand at in different places (different temperature, humidity, etc) can actually affect the type of grease that is ideal for use. what i list here is the generic, basic needs
you'd need only three different products for a reasonably good performance: a grease with teflon, a grease WITHOUT teflon (preferably with less water, things such as copper grease, anti seize, ti prep are all in this category), and lastly, lubricant. also a cameo appearance for any citric based cleaner/WD-40
for all the THREADS AND BOLTS, on the seatpost, on crankarms/pedal bosses, use the GREASE WITHOUT TEFLON. The purpose of the grease is only to mainly create a layer between the two metals so that they do not come into direct contact and seize up, and also to smoothen the tightening. Teflon grease is not neccesary and could be bad for older parts as it encourages slipping.
for bearings, you could use the GREASE WITH TEFLON. The thickness of the grease would partially determine your rolling resistance, the thicker, the 'slower' you'd feel rolling. (but honestly, unless you're really, really anal about the rolling and already run super high tire pressure, it doesn't make a difference in riding). Thicker grease is usually better at preventing water sipping into the bearings hence less maintainence, it would be more ideal for hotter climates as the temperature makes it more 'runny' and there's a bit less rolling resistance. Thinner grease is more 'runny' than thick ones in cold weather, but water sips in a bit quicker. Remember that all bearings warm up a little after you ride for a few minutes and the rolling resistance is brought down to a minimal, so i always recommend getting a thick teflon grease for bearings.
as for LUBRICANTS, i'm talking about the dripping wet type stuff. you should go for the thinner stuff for better performance, those 'winter wax' style lubricants are good if you always keep an eye on stuff but when it dries a little, they gunk up and get a bit messy. with the thin, dripping wet lube, you can use it to soak the shit out of your cable inner, and the inside of the cable house. trust me, it makes a world of difference. as for the cable nipple and the area on the brake lever that houses it, use either grease there.
for the chain, i don't recommend wax due to it gunking up over time, what you should do is spray the fuck out of it with citric cleaner or WD-40, to the point that it only drips out the solution as clean as you spray into it (make sure not to spary onto bearings!! best would be to take the chain OFF the bike to do it). after you sprayed it clean, LET IT DRY for about 30 minutes before you put it back on, and put lube on it. wet up the whole chain and work it into the rollers, then use an old cloth to wipe the outside off of excess. the chain is the one area that you should add lube on a weekly basis. when you add lube, all you need is to drip lube onto the chain while backpedalling.
if you're not able to buy the two types of different grease, it's safer to just buy one big tub of copper grease/lithium grease, and use it for all applications (including bearings). remember that the thicker the grease, the less chance of water seeping in. also, copper grease is known as anti-seize as well, and make sure you're extra generous when it comes to titanium contact points
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This may sound retarded but how do you put grease into your Bearings? just get a small blob then work it in around the sealed area or what?
This area
(http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6174/2004odysseyeurobbconversd3.jpg)
Just checking to make sure ive been doing it right for the last few years :X
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This may sound retarded but how do you put grease into your Bearings? just get a small blob then work it in around the sealed area or what?
This area
(http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6174/2004odysseyeurobbconversd3.jpg)
Just checking to make sure ive been doing it right for the last few years :X
Unless they are rough or stiff, then just put it around the inside where it contacts.
To get it actually inside where the balls are, use a small flathead and pry up the seal from the inner area.
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Sorry for bringing old thread up, but i searched and what should i use on my pawls and springs on my driver? would vasoline work?
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Sorry for bringing old thread up, but i searched and what should i use on my pawls and springs on my driver? would vasoline work?
A tiny bit of Phil's is what I use. However in many cassettes they use oil. Some you almost have to use oil. I prefer the grease because it makes them pretty quiet.
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A tiny bit of Phil's is what I use. However in many cassettes they use oil. Some you almost have to use oil. I prefer the grease because it makes them pretty quiet.
Oil? like what type of oil? would brake fluid work? or vasoline?
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okay for us dummies out there,
whats the best and where can i get it..
for my hub/crank/headset bearings.
my cables.
and my chain.
i like in the uk by the way
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Did you read the thread? I think it has been covered... Most bike shops will have what you need...
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i did read but i just want a straight answer so i can go and get some. i worry mostly about my brake includidng the springs and my back wheel. the chain is not so much of a worry i dont know why. so the best stuff for cables? Best stuff for cassete bearings?(anything other than thick grease i like to roll as fast as poss) and chains. and also for the driver is wd40 ok? ive been using it and it seems fine but im not 100% sure it will be ok in the long run.
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White Lightening for cables and chain (plastic bottle NOT the spray).
Phil grease for bearings.
Go to the local auto parts store and get anti-seize. Total, under $15.
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thanks
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Phil Wood grease FTW!
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i liek to use bikelust, i think made by pedros, to clean my bike its so good puts a nice wax coating on my bike frame and makes it smell nice. for my chain i would use clean streak the first time and then use pedros ice wax for the first time then after that just icewax. icewax is the best shit ever, good in like all conditions. i even use for my mtb
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i got turned on to valvoline synthetic and now i use it for everything.
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I have some thick-assed brake grease, would it work well on my bolts??
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I have some thick-assed brake grease, would it work well on my bolts??
should be fine.
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should be fine.
Alright,cool. Thanks Papa.
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i did read but i just want a straight answer so i can go and get some. i worry mostly about my brake includidng the springs and my back wheel. the chain is not so much of a worry i dont know why. so the best stuff for cables? Best stuff for cassete bearings?(anything other than thick grease i like to roll as fast as poss) and chains. and also for the driver is wd40 ok? ive been using it and it seems fine but im not 100% sure it will be ok in the long run.
Do NOT use wd-40 in your driver. It will prematurely wear all of the engagement surfaces and work it way into the bearings which will ruin the grease/bearings themselves.
As far as lubes, I go with sheeps suggestions. In fact use the white lightning in the driver too.
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say i have some older sealed bearings i want to make smooth again. how do i go about popping the seal off (i have bent up a few seals this way), cleaning the bearings out and getting new grease in there?
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either a pick (http://users.ntplx.net/~ullman/images/h4wb.jpg) or the edge of a razor blade/exacto knife. just carefully pry it up at the edge. you can clean them out with any solvent/degreaser. just make sure they are completely dry before you put them back together. then repack them kinds like this (http://www.automedia.com/Servicing_Wheel_Bearings/ccr20020901wb/2). and pop the seals back on.
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I know this thread is very old, but I will bring it back instead of making a new one.
Have anyone tried to use some kind of ceramic wet lube on their ceramic bearings? Will it make them roll faster? Pros and cons of this? Or should I just use regular grease?
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so, for my ratchet, i want a thin lube, but i just cant find any triflow here (Portugal, or online shops in Europe).. If you know a shop help me out here xD
What other good thin lube can i use?
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anyone?
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Go to your local bike shop and tell them you need some thin oil to go in your freehub. They should be able to sort you out.
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and probabily only have finishline..