Bikeguide.org - Bike maintenance for BMX'ers
The Street => The Bike Shop => Topic started by: The Outsider on September 05, 2015, 09:16:40 AM
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Can't get my Thunderbolts off of the bike, and I'm stumped. I use the anti seize compound included with the cranks, I've removed them 2-3 times before, but this time it's like they're welded on. I need to replace my old sprocket and these otherwise great cranks have thrown a wrench in the works.
I've used a rubber mallet to smack the arms, nothing has budged. I've used the 17mm hex arm to hit the spindle (small enough to avoid the cluster) and no movement. Even tapped on the spindle bolt, nothing, but don't want on beat on that important threaded bolt.
Only thing I can think is some WD 40 and let it sit, but I really don't like WD40 anywhere near my bike. Anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it? Suggestions?
Last question, what would be a better option for an anti seize compound? I have a big tube of Phil Wood grease and no more of the included anti seize compound. Would that work? Not psyched on being unable to get these cranks off, and really not psyched on whatever that bronze stuff was. Wanna get out and shred soon, not be ordering crap online/waiting for labor day weekend to be over.
Thanks!
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Wack the bolt. Just make sure you have a few threads in the spindle
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Seconded whacking the bolt. You can try some penetrating fluid, but get that all cleaned up and everything well greased after. The copper antisieze works great, but that one little packet isn't enough if you removed and re installed your cranks 2-3 times.
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Thanks dudes, smacking the hell out of that bolt finally worked. Had to use the WD40 and let it sit, now cleaning it up.
Yeah, I'm completely out of that copper antiseize. What's a good alternative I could use/find locally? Would Phil Wood work? Anything easy to find at a hardware store or bike shop?
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Back the bolt out two turns and hop on the bike. Bunnyhop once or twice and they'll come flying off. Bunnyhop with the right pedal forward and with the left pedal forward. This works for me every time.
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Thanks dudes, smacking the hell out of that bolt finally worked. Had to use the WD40 and let it sit, now cleaning it up.
Yeah, I'm completely out of that copper antiseize. What's a good alternative I could use/find locally? Would Phil Wood work? Anything easy to find at a hardware store or bike shop?
Don't use grease--you need antiseize for this (though grease is better than nothing). Any automotive parts store will have anti-seize available. Sometimes they even have it in the little tubes so you don't have to buy a whole bottle.
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I've used Phil Wood on my Twombolts for years no, no problems here.
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A pep boys/autozone type store will have copper antisieze for sure. They generally have little packets of it by the parts counter.
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Just picked a jar of anti seize up from the local auto parts store. Fairly cheap too. Not sure why I thought this stuff was so specialized/rare. Thanks BG, you helped me learn something new today and hopefully avoid this hassle in the future.
\m/(>_<)\m/
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Back the bolt out two turns and hop on the bike. Bunnyhop once or twice and they'll come flying off. Bunnyhop with the right pedal forward and with the left pedal forward. This works for me every time.
this is the trick
bunnyhop with your other foot forward
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Back the bolt out two turns and hop on the bike. Bunnyhop once or twice and they'll come flying off. Bunnyhop with the right pedal forward and with the left pedal forward. This works for me every time.
This was stated by G awhile ago and works great.
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used to always do that when i had wombolts
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In the future, use a profile GDH tool. Same thread!
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I dunno why you'd need a tool when you can just bunny hop
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Isnt there a minor risk of doing minor damage to the crank when bunnyhopping it loose rather than using tools?
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Isnt there a minor risk of doing minor damage to the crank when bunnyhopping it loose rather than using tools?
Not really no. The suggestion is to loosen the bolt slightly, then bunnyhop lightly on flat ground with the opposite foot forward until you feel it break loose (not hop a fence off a roof gap to flat ground 50 feet below). Definitely less damaging than wailing away on the end with a hammer.
:)
G.
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Good to know, G. I'll def use the switch footed bunnyhop method, just wasn't aware until after they were off of the bike. Smacking the bolt with my rubber mallet worked and I checked the threads for damage (none, they look and thread perfect) but still made me uncomfortable.
Definitely made sure to use enough anti seize after I bought a new jar.
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The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that, then next thing I know EVERYTHING IS PAINTED SILVER AND IT WON'T WIPE OFF.
(http://images-cdn.9gag.com/photo/aEzBd5p_700b.jpg)
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Witness me!
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The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....
Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...
:)
G.
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The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....
Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...
:)
G.
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.
That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.
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The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....
Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...
:)
G.
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.
That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.
Surely seized torque is way higher than dry torque though surely...? So I'd rather go from "wet" to "a bit dry but still possible to get undone" (maybe a 30% increase?) than from "dry" to "well that's me fucked" (which is an increase of maybe 500%)?!?!
:)
G.
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The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....
Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...
:)
G.
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.
That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.
Surely seized torque is way higher than dry torque though surely...? So I'd rather go from "wet" to "a bit dry but still possible to get undone" (maybe a 30% increase?) than from "dry" to "well that's me fucked" (which is an increase of maybe 500%)?!?!
:)
G.
In terms of torque required to remove it, yes. I'm talking about clamping load on the wheel and studs. From what I've read and been told, a lot more force is exerted when torquing if the studs are lubricated. This is in regards to crushing the seat on the wheel and over-clamping the studs. I do not know the exact numbers but it does put the load on the stud above the recommended range.
A little grease wouldn't be as bad in that regard as slathering a ton of anti-seize on like some people do. Since if it rusts up, less clamping force will be produced by the same amount of rotational torque - so slight lubrication is better than none in my opinion.
I've had no problem up here with harsh winters and road salt even with open ended lugs - IF the wheels are removed a few times a year like they should be. Brakes should be inspected at least once a year and with most peoples' driving, tires should be rotated at least a couple times. But when they're left on for 2-3 years (or less) with nothing touched, the rust gets excessive. Same with the assholes that ram the lug back onto the rusty threads with an impact gun...