Bikeguide.org - Bike maintenance for BMX'ers
The Street => The Bike Shop => Topic started by: Zoidberg on May 15, 2015, 06:08:30 PM
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so since i've been bmxing, hubguards have come a long way
from nothing except glands (which lets be honest are plug ugly, EXCEPT THE NEW ONES) really have done the job without spreading the frame etc
and now everyone (at last) seem to do them for their own hubs, threadable, slot on, etc
the merrit ones seem interesting but maybe the gland 4's already make them obsolete
thoughts? how much is too much for a guard? they are pricey for specific ones but arguably worth it
plus, plastic or 4130, and why?
very nerdy, but arguably, hub guards are what have come on the most
come at me bra
http://themerged.com/merritt-tension-hub-guard-available-now/
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fuck pegs
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Glands are deadly. I'd probably meritt's next and have been using knight gurds for a few years. The problem with knight guards is that they stick to the ratchet axle.
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chromoly is what I would want. Slides very very nice. Though its the most expensive option.
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I was running into this issue last night when buying my new wheelset, Last wheel set I bought I didn't have to worry about it since it was a set of primos, which the N4FL is probably one of the best hubs/hubguards I've ever ran in my life.
Ended up picking up a set of profile hubs with all profile guards, I really wish they were chromoly and I wish they made a rear hubguard that works with bolt on hubs and not just 14mm threaded axle ones :/
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I was running into this issue last night when buying my new wheelset, Last wheel set I bought I didn't have to worry about it since it was a set of primos, which the N4FL is probably one of the best hubs/hubguards I've ever ran in my life.
Ended up picking up a set of profile hubs with all profile guards, I really wish they were chromoly and I wish they made a rear hubguard that works with bolt on hubs and not just 14mm threaded axle ones :/
I ran a 3/8's axle on the back of a mini, along with their normal guard and a bsd one later on and they worked somehow.
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I was running into this issue last night when buying my new wheelset, Last wheel set I bought I didn't have to worry about it since it was a set of primos, which the N4FL is probably one of the best hubs/hubguards I've ever ran in my life.
Ended up picking up a set of profile hubs with all profile guards, I really wish they were chromoly and I wish they made a rear hubguard that works with bolt on hubs and not just 14mm threaded axle ones :/
I ran a 3/8's axle on the back of a mini, along with their normal guard and a bsd one later on and they worked somehow.
Yeah what? They work fine on the female axles.
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chromoly hubguards are what's up. i have had the same s&m cymbal non drive and daily grind drive side guards in the rear for over a year and they're holding up great. at first i had to use about 3 or 4mm worth of spacers in between the axle collars and each hubguard to make it so the inner edge didn't rub the spokes, so then i took the spacers out and used an angle grinder to take off a few mm on the inner edge of each guard. now i can take my wheel in and out of my frame without having to spread the stays at all. maintenance is easy, and the steel guards are durable as shit and seem to really enjoy going over brick ledges and skatestopped ledges.
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fuck pegs
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fuck pegs
Gonna have to whip out some El Guapos if you want me to go there, buddy.
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Regular diameter pegs are just slapping the walls?
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I was running into this issue last night when buying my new wheelset, Last wheel set I bought I didn't have to worry about it since it was a set of primos, which the N4FL is probably one of the best hubs/hubguards I've ever ran in my life.
Ended up picking up a set of profile hubs with all profile guards, I really wish they were chromoly and I wish they made a rear hubguard that works with bolt on hubs and not just 14mm threaded axle ones :/
I ran a 3/8's axle on the back of a mini, along with their normal guard and a bsd one later on and they worked somehow.
Yeah what? They work fine on the female axles.
For someone reason I had a dumb moment and forgot that all the collars on the hubs were the same size. Meh, I'll end up switching to female in the rear later on anyways.
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Plastic BSD or chromo s&m is what Ive been riding the last couple of years. Both good but the chromo is vastly superior to anything
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Have you considered our new Uniguard?
http://www.gsportbmx.com/products/hub-guards/uniguard/
Pretty cheap, slides well and fitting is very straightforward with no dropout spreading.
:)
G.
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I see the structural idea of the shape of the uniguard, but worry that it would feel odd when ice-picking since its not round, seeing how I normally grind on normal hubguards.
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I see the structural idea of the shape of the uniguard, but worry that it would feel odd when ice-picking since its not round, seeing how I normally grind on normal hubguards.
Dropouts aren't round either.
The guard is only holding your lateral position, it shouldn't have much weight on it so I very much doubt that there would be even a slight effect, probably less significant than a slight flat spot ground on your peg.
:)
G.
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i always land on my guards cos im sketch, i reckon id bend the uniguard inwards pretty quick.
i got a daily grind guard on my driveside which is pretty sweet. for the front i reckon no guards and an inward laced hub is the best setup ive ran
(http://www.360bs.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/supreme_front.jpg)
had one of these laced inward and the recessed bits in the shell for the heads meant i never smashed any spokes, only ground into the shell a bit but it lasted ages and is still chilling in my shed
theres a few other companys do hubs with similar recessed bits in the flanges that would work, shadow do, cant think of others off the top of my head
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Tree should bring back their original front hub. I always thought that was a cool idea, and a lot less annoying than trying to get special spokes.
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Macneil did that too.
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i had a macniel one on the front and it wasnt as good. the outbound spokes still would break, but the hubshell folded over them so it made replacing them a pain. had to gouge out the deformed shell with a flat head screwdriver to make the space to get them out
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Yolo
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My gland 2 & 3s annoy the absolute shit out of me because I break so many zipties/shoelaces/whatevers holding them on.
...but the fact it's so easy to re-attach them and they don't EVER catch is what makes me continue to run them over other guards, especially metal types which need the whole wheel moving.
On the driveside my metal DSG has been MINT. could not be happier with that.
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Never broke a shoelace (Mk2 and 3), I broke some zipties though. The included ones all broke. The first ones I found in my garage all broke, but to be fair they were at least as old as 1992. I tried some new, smaller ones, singularly and in pairs, broke them. Tried some beefy as shit ones, broke some of them. If I made real sure to avoid having any being above flush with the guard itself, they were fine
Laces are the way to go for several reasons I won't go into, but I used zipties for one side of both my wheels (due to having 4 of them) because it was proving too annoying to thread and dial the laces in like you can with one 1 gland per wheel
Never had a HTP Private Part/clone snag on me back in the day
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Never had An issue with shoelaces on glands. Keen to try the merrit guard though
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i'm glad this has generated a bit of debate considering it's a pretty mundane topic
where do people stand on slot on vs threaded?
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Tree should bring back their original front hub. I always thought that was a cool idea, and a lot less annoying than trying to get special spokes.
What was the idea of it? Any pics?
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the mankey strap was a million times better than the zipties for holding glands on. i think if you leave a tiny bit of slack, the zipties are ok, but if you crank em down real tight they just snap off
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The Macneil hub was a fair bit different, and ultimately kind of shitty.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/Nick_jackson_89/treefronthub.jpg)
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And what's so good about the holes being offset?
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I believe the offset spoke holes allowed you to inward lace the wheel. That, combined with the thicker flange, meant that the spokes and spoke heads were less prone to grind damage.
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wouldn't that macneil be a bitch to lace with different spoke sizes tho?
also any pics of the tree guard? if it was so good why was it discontinued?
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those tree hubs were cool but fuckin expensive in the uk, about twice the cost of a marmoset (like 150 quid+ if i remember correctly).
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...macneil...wtp...wtf.
if you want metal run cymbals.
if you want plastic run gland 4
the only two guards with any resale value
end of discussion lol
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says the current dumbest member lol
conical guards on the front feel whack on ledges (theyre dece on rails), and glands are good but the gland 2 was better than the 3 cos it sat flusher to the wheel.
there are many options out there, its a case of personal preference for how you grind
inner lacing and no guards worked best for me
end of discussion lol
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wouldn't that macneil be a bitch to lace with different spoke sizes tho?
also any pics of the tree guard? if it was so good why was it discontinued?
The photo I posted was of the Tree hub. This was the Macneil hub:
(http://www.customriders.com/prod_imgs/HUMA7658.jpg)
I am pretty sure the Tree hub used the same size spokes, just stepped slightly to reduce stress on the "outbound" spokes when laced inward. I could be wrong though.
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think ya a rude'en do ya'