Bikeguide.org - Bike maintenance for BMX'ers
The Street => The Bike Shop => Topic started by: dude... on May 06, 2015, 03:01:51 AM
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Specifically the newer type, with a roller bearing in the middle and a normal sealed bearing on the outside.
because of the roller bearing, i cant get the race out with the usual angled bit of metal/screwdriver + hammer to the back technique which usually does the trick for drivers with multiple sealed bearings in them.
thoughts? suggestions?
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I did something similar on my Ratchet and my KHE coaster.
On the KHE I just had to suffer through it with a screw driver. Took freaking ages but I finally got it out.
On the Ratchet I had to find a spacer that fit perfectly on the other side of the driver and hammer on that spacer to get the blown race out.
Not sure if it helped, but thats what I did. Its annoying as hell...
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yeah ive got a dremel copy tool i was gonna try to cut it out with but its pretty shit, and bearing races are usually super heat treated and tough to minimise wear right?
i dont have a vice to clamp the driver in so its gonna be a pain in the arse. was hoping there was some sort of magic technique i didnt know about or hadnt thought of which would work
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This thread has me all kinds of confused.
What driver is this? There is ONLY a needle roller in the drivers of all our aftermarket hubs, this problem simply shouldn't exist?!?!
Pictures?
:)
G.
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Maybe he's referring to a V2 driver
I recall someone doing this with a bar end
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its from a mates hub, maybe a v3 odyssey? think he purchased it around 09
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/benyc/IMG_2877_zpssb3kbn2z.jpg)
see how theres the race of the bearing that blew out sitting on the outside of the needle roller bearing. its a 9t driver, might have been one of the first to have the needle bearing in it if i remember correctly
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Flat head/chisel/extension bar and a hammer. You need to smash the bearing race over enough to be able to wedge something inbetween the driver and race properly, and then it's just a case of hitting it to fuck.
Try soaking it in some automotive sprays to help free it off. There is no "easy way" haha.
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I'm not familiar with that driver, its probably a stock JoyTech one, definitely not my work, sorry. Realistically though, probably better just to buy a new driver, saves buying the bearings and all the fannying about and after 6 years or so it is probably a good idea to replace it anyway.... or just buy a new hub entirely... I realise that this is a bit of a shit answer and it would be cool to keep stuff running as long as possible by just replacing the smallest part possible, but compared to car spares or bits for a domestic boiler or whatever, this is nothing...
:)
G.
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Well ok, in my ratchet it was the needle bearing itself that got stuck. In the KHE it was the bearing race after the bearings themselves fell out in pieces.
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its my mates old one-hyes quit riding but i need to get it running so he can ride again. ill take it down my local and wail on it with some tools i guess
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I'm not familiar with that driver, its probably a stock JoyTech one
Yeah it's one of those standard back-in-the-day 4pawl jobbies. The bearings did used to break a lot and i've ended up with about 5 of them but they are still good as far as design goes.
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its a 3 pawl driver, i remember now my mate got it from jejames
got the bearing race out in the end with a dremel, some pliers, and a hammer. new bearing in there and its good to go once more. 6802s ::)
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If I were you I would take a close good look at the bearing shoulder that the innermost driver bearing butts up against when the conenut is done up. Normally Joytech axles have a slight radius that gets deformed from the wheel being done up tight or worse, a blown inner driver bearing. If so, sell your mate on an Ody female axle, which has a nice square edge that's kinder to/more tolerant of inner driver bearing inner races
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If I were you I would take a close good look at the bearing shoulder that the innermost driver bearing butts up against when the conenut is done up. Normally Joytech axles have a slight radius that gets deformed from the wheel being done up tight or worse, a blown inner driver bearing. If so, sell your mate on an Ody female axle, which has a nice square edge that's kinder to/more tolerant of inner driver bearing inner races
Very happy someone noticed this.
:)
G.
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it should be ok for now, tbh i dunno if he will even ride it much anymore. going over to sydney in a week or so and as i still have his old bike at mine i figured id get it running so we could have a roll and so i could get it out of my shed.
the bearing race and shoulder looked fine when i had it apart, i know what you mean though, cos the aluminium tube spacers in the middle of odyssey hubs used to deform like that, and would cause bearings to die really quickly