Bikeguide.org - Bike maintenance for BMX'ers
The Street => The Bike Shop => Topic started by: montymitch on April 26, 2015, 12:45:50 PM
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I recently built up a bike with a fresh drive-train comprised of Keychain, 28t Fang, and 9t Antigram. It wasn't as smooth as I expected when I first built it up, but these things usually need a little break in, so I didn't worry about it.
Yesterday I made a few adjustments and noticed that when the chain is tight, it is tight at the top and bottom of the sprocket, but not the middle. Am I wrong in thinking this is going to wear like mad, like when you use a stretched out chain on a new sprocket? It's a relatively expensive setup I have going and I kinda thought since it's all Odyssey gear I wouldn't have issues like this. Have you guys seen anything similar? Should I pursue warranty or just go ride?
UPDATE:
Problem solved. I swapped my 28t Fang for a 25t C512 and all is well. I prefer the taller gearing, but this runs much smoother and I was able to eliminate a half-link and move my wheel back a smidge which fixed the brake clearance problem I had.
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What kind of cranks do you have and do you have the proper spacer in between the cranks and the sprocket?
If the chain is tight when your cranks are in a certain place and only in that certain place, then that is a problem with the sprocket sitting off center on the cranks, and not a problem with the chain. If the chain is tight you'll see that you'll feel the tightness in different areas as you move the cranks around.
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No, everything is brand spanking new. Cranks are Thunderbolts with 1 ride on them. It's like the pitch is wrong between the chainwheel and the chain.
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Its just the chain. Get a shadow next time.
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How loose is the chain on the sprocket (mm of play)? I'm interested to see this.
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I'll try and get a pic this evening. Right now I'm supposed to be grading papers...
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I had a similar issue when I was building my aod up. It was like the chain was trying to come off the sprocket
It ended up being the chain line wasn't quite right and once I used some more spacers and aligned everything up better the driveline hasn't made a noise since
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yeah mine was rough as fuck when the chainline was out
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Here's a little video. My chain line is damn near perfect, and you can see the sprocket is already starting to show some wear.
https://youtu.be/vWMZgqhIdSw (https://youtu.be/vWMZgqhIdSw)
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Maybe you got a bad chain it's the first version.
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Here's a little video. My chain line is damn near perfect, and you can see the sprocket is already starting to show some wear.
https://youtu.be/vWMZgqhIdSw (https://youtu.be/vWMZgqhIdSw)
So that looks like at least 2-3mm of play... I'd email G and show him the video to get his input. Part of me says to ride it a bit to break it in if you haven't already.
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Cold it really be the chain? Sounds like a slightly oval sprocket. Seems unlekely, but I would get a ruler or a compass out to check its roundness just to be sure.
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Keychain is going to be less tolerant of sprocky/driver misalignment. Have you worked out your chainline mathematically? Not always easy unless you know the distance from the driver teeth to dropout. I dunno what that dimension is on a Antigram but on a Ratchet it's 11.5mm so it _could_ be the same
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Is this thread real?
Suggesting Shadow chains over Odyssey?
Chain line? what? How could that have anything to do with it? lol maybe im missing something.
Chain line mathematically? :D
Haha, anyway (after watching your vid) I've noticed this same phenomena before on my BMX with a Drop Buster chain (z510hx). I wouldn't worry too much about it... but thats just me.
If it was a more perfect fit I think we would get more adverse issues.
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Is your chain very tight? The aim of a chain (or the threads on a bolt/nut) is to transfer the load from the sprocket to the chain (or the bolt to the nut). You can never expect the components to fit so perfectly that they all take an equal share of the load, so the last tooth will take most, and then the next one a bit less (or the first thread for a bolt/nut). Typically, it is just the first 3 teeth (or threads) that take 80% of the load or more, and the further you move from the load the less it is. So you would expect to always see something like you have there... having said that, it is obviously hard to tell from a video compared to having it in your own hands, but it does look like maybe that is a bit extreme for all brand new parts.
How does it ride? If it seems OK to ride, then please check that the chain tension isnt excessive and try riding it and see if it seems to improve or worsen.
I hope this makes sense and seems reasonable.
:)
G.
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My keychain did the same thing on a brand new deluxe sprocket. I just kept riding it, it's fine. My sprocket looks a lot less worn than yours though, but I may also just be crazy.
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Is your chain very tight? The aim of a chain (or the threads on a bolt/nut) is to transfer the load from the sprocket to the chain (or the bolt to the nut). You can never expect the components to fit so perfectly that they all take an equal share of the load, so the last tooth will take most, and then the next one a bit less (or the first thread for a bolt/nut). Typically, it is just the first 3 teeth (or threads) that take 80% of the load or more, and the further you move from the load the less it is. So you would expect to always see something like you have there... having said that, it is obviously hard to tell from a video compared to having it in your own hands, but it does look like maybe that is a bit extreme for all brand new parts.
How does it ride? If it seems OK to ride, then please check that the chain tension isnt excessive and try riding it and see if it seems to improve or worsen.
I hope this makes sense and seems reasonable.
:)
G.
The only reason I noticed this in the first place was that I was having a difficult time getting chain tension dialed in. I'm a seasoned rider, I've worked in bike shops, and I've built and maintained my own rides for decades. If I back off the chain tension, I get slap on the chainstay. If the chain is taught, I get the weirdness seen in the video. It's definitely a little notchy feeling when I ride it.
In my experience, the first few teeth should be tight under load, and then slack on the sprocket after that. The thing that is odd about this is that it's tight where the chain comes off of the sprocket and loose in the middle. I imagine the chain will fit a little better after it has stretched a little, but I'm worried that in the mean time it will ravage my sprocket, driver, or both.
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Do you use tensioner's?
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Do you use tensioner's?
Yep. It's a Sunday 2nd Wave with the built in tensioners. I've never encountered this problem.
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Chain line? what? How could that have anything to do with it? lol maybe im missing something.
Chain line mathematically? :D
1. Misalignment + tension
2. Yep. Can't trust eyes (unless you are iamhollywood)
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Mine kinda did the same thing make sure your alignment is on point. You will have to ride it for a couple days it should be fine after that mine works good best chain ever made.
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Yeah, I'm not really sold on it yet. My chainline is spot on and a $50 chain that lasts forever is no good if it destroys the rest of my drive train in the process.
As for mathematically calculating my chainline, I'm calling BS. This is a BMX bike. If micrometers are needed for setup, you're doing it wrong.
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Idk what are you running I'm running 28/9 with a tree sprocket I got my chain super tight and it works fine
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I was looking at your video could be your sprocket it's hard to tell make another one spinning your cranks
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Yeah, I'm not really sold on it yet. My chainline is spot on and a $50 chain that lasts forever is no good if it destroys the rest of my drive train in the process.
As for mathematically calculating my chainline, I'm calling BS. This is a BMX bike. If micrometers are needed for setup, you're doing it wrong.
Who said anything about micrometers? How do you know if it's spot on? Sight is a lousy indication, even a battered square edge is better
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We have nearly the same setup save for the sprocket, I have a 28t Tree and mine is the does the same thing as your video shows. Even with the shitty drive line alignment I have(wide tire accommodating frame that barely fits a 28t with loads of spacers) it feels absolutely great riding it, it's probably the smoothest setup I've ever had, no noise, no harsh spots, no random tight spots, or uneven wear on the sprocket. I say you're over thinking this and just ride it, it's a bmx bike afterall.
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A quick blurt for anyone interested who can't work out to do it:
Rear ends are 110 from inside of left dropout to inside of right (overlucknut dimension)
110 / 2 = 55mm
55 - 11.5 (distance from inside of right drop to centre of driver teeth on Ratchet and possibly Antigram) = 43.5
Middle of driver teeth is 43.5mm from centre of drops/BB
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Say your BB is 75mm wide (you'll have to measure to find out how wide it actually is, range I've seen is from 68 to 80mm)
75 / 2 = 37.5
Say you have a 5mm sprocket with the teeth in the centre of the sprocket
5 / 2 = 2.5mm
43.5 - 37.5 = 6
6 - 2.5mm = 3.5
3.5mm of spacing between BB bearing and that sprocket to align it with driver
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A quick blurt for anyone interested who can't work out to do it:
Rear ends are 110 from inside of left dropout to inside of right (overlucknut dimension)
110 / 2 = 55mm
55 - 11.5 (distance from inside of right drop to centre of driver teeth on Ratchet and possibly Antigram) = 43.5
Middle of driver teeth is 43.5mm from centre of drops/BB
----
Say your BB is 75mm wide (you'll have to measure to find out how wide it actually is, range I've seen is from 68 to 80mm)
75 / 2 = 37.5
Say you have a 5mm sprocket with the teeth in the centre of the sprocket
5 / 2 = 2.5mm
43.5 - 37.5 = 6
6 - 2.5mm = 3.5
3.5mm of spacing between BB bearing and that sprocket to align it with driver
Thanks for that. It seems to me that there are always issues that prevent a perfect chain alignment. Chainstay clearance, BB width vs spindle length issues, and the less than perfect alignment of the whole rear triangle often (not always) make chain line a secondary issue.
As for the bike, I've been riding it and it isn't smoothing out as well as I'd like. The chain is popping every once in a while, which messes with my head since the last time (different bike) my chain made popping noises it broke three hard cranks later and sent me over the bars.
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Elite 9 tooth tree 28 mine works fine
(http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff324/stayfit25/Mobile%20Uploads/th_trim.EF95EF7D-B04C-4A93-BF82-AD04D00F525F_zpsldjxpzn8.mp4) (http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff324/stayfit25/Mobile%20Uploads/trim.EF95EF7D-B04C-4A93-BF82-AD04D00F525F_zpsldjxpzn8.mp4)
(http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff324/stayfit25/Mobile%20Uploads/th_trim.B79EEE70-497A-40D9-AD10-F36D13E0218D_zps5ek0gkst.mp4) (http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff324/stayfit25/Mobile%20Uploads/trim.B79EEE70-497A-40D9-AD10-F36D13E0218D_zps5ek0gkst.mp4)
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A quick blurt for anyone interested who can't work out to do it:
Rear ends are 110 from inside of left dropout to inside of right (overlucknut dimension)
110 / 2 = 55mm
55 - 11.5 (distance from inside of right drop to centre of driver teeth on Ratchet and possibly Antigram) = 43.5
Middle of driver teeth is 43.5mm from centre of drops/BB
----
Say your BB is 75mm wide (you'll have to measure to find out how wide it actually is, range I've seen is from 68 to 80mm)
75 / 2 = 37.5
Say you have a 5mm sprocket with the teeth in the centre of the sprocket
5 / 2 = 2.5mm
43.5 - 37.5 = 6
6 - 2.5mm = 3.5
3.5mm of spacing between BB bearing and that sprocket to align it with driver
This is great, but it assumes that the frame is straight and very often they aren't! I would always suggest checking with a straight edge too if at all possible.
:)
G.
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mines running smoother now its bedded in or whatever
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I have a similar situation with a Keychain, MDS and Thunderbolts and all items are within one or two rides of being new.
After a trial and error process of swapping parts around onto my older drive train I found the Thunderbolts are responsible for the tight and loose spots. The old drive train was a standard chain, beaten MDS and Twombolts and the chain tension was always equal with no questionable spots and the MDS straight.
Turns out the Thunderbolts sprocket bolt hole is a fraction below being level with the sprocket recess and after tensioning the sprocket bolt down then spinning the cranks the disk was pulled out of alignment TOWARDS the sprocket bolt. Backing off the sprocket bolts tension the disk was again nice and straight.
Did all the same again with the Twombolts and they do not cause the disk to be pulled over and never had an issue.
Changed gearing on my spare bike which has Thunderbolts and guess what? Exactly the same issue of chain tension being tight and loose with the disk pulled over to the sprocket bolt.
After looking at the wear pattern on your sprocket it appears you might have a similar situation?
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hmmm interesting-maybe get g to look into the tooling for the thunderbolts. i guess you could whack a really thin washer between the sprocket boss hole and sprocket to alleviate it?
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I have a similar situation with a Keychain, MDS and Thunderbolts and all items are within one or two rides of being new.
After a trial and error process of swapping parts around onto my older drive train I found the Thunderbolts are responsible for the tight and loose spots. The old drive train was a standard chain, beaten MDS and Twombolts and the chain tension was always equal with no questionable spots and the MDS straight.
Turns out the Thunderbolts sprocket bolt hole is a fraction below being level with the sprocket recess and after tensioning the sprocket bolt down then spinning the cranks the disk was pulled out of alignment TOWARDS the sprocket bolt. Backing off the sprocket bolts tension the disk was again nice and straight.
Did all the same again with the Twombolts and they do not cause the disk to be pulled over and never had an issue.
Changed gearing on my spare bike which has Thunderbolts and guess what? Exactly the same issue of chain tension being tight and loose with the disk pulled over to the sprocket bolt.
After looking at the wear pattern on your sprocket it appears you might have a similar situation?
Sorry to hear of that. I would check the main sprocket seat on the crank very carefully to make sure there isn't a blob of paint or something preventing it sitting flat. If it isnt easily remedied then we can warranty it for you.
:)
G.
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If it isn't paint then a headless bolt (or overly long one) will sort it
(http://s21.postimg.org/iim3rtmx3/bike120313c.jpg)
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I have a similar situation with a Keychain, MDS and Thunderbolts and all items are within one or two rides of being new.
After a trial and error process of swapping parts around onto my older drive train I found the Thunderbolts are responsible for the tight and loose spots. The old drive train was a standard chain, beaten MDS and Twombolts and the chain tension was always equal with no questionable spots and the MDS straight.
Turns out the Thunderbolts sprocket bolt hole is a fraction below being level with the sprocket recess and after tensioning the sprocket bolt down then spinning the cranks the disk was pulled out of alignment TOWARDS the sprocket bolt. Backing off the sprocket bolts tension the disk was again nice and straight.
Did all the same again with the Twombolts and they do not cause the disk to be pulled over and never had an issue.
Changed gearing on my spare bike which has Thunderbolts and guess what? Exactly the same issue of chain tension being tight and loose with the disk pulled over to the sprocket bolt.
After looking at the wear pattern on your sprocket it appears you might have a similar situation?
I've ran into the same issue on other cranks in the past, a thin washer or shim solved the problem.
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^^ I have the same problem with my Wombolts. Not fully tightening the sprocketbolt solves it for me. My Thunderbolts on the other hand are fine.
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OG Wombolts came with a thin washer for this very reason. I am running my keychain on said Wombolts with a new sprocket/rear wheel no issues. If I forget the washer, I have a similar issue.
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I have a similar situation with a Keychain, MDS and Thunderbolts and all items are within one or two rides of being new.
After a trial and error process of swapping parts around onto my older drive train I found the Thunderbolts are responsible for the tight and loose spots. The old drive train was a standard chain, beaten MDS and Twombolts and the chain tension was always equal with no questionable spots and the MDS straight.
Turns out the Thunderbolts sprocket bolt hole is a fraction below being level with the sprocket recess and after tensioning the sprocket bolt down then spinning the cranks the disk was pulled out of alignment TOWARDS the sprocket bolt. Backing off the sprocket bolts tension the disk was again nice and straight.
Did all the same again with the Twombolts and they do not cause the disk to be pulled over and never had an issue.
Changed gearing on my spare bike which has Thunderbolts and guess what? Exactly the same issue of chain tension being tight and loose with the disk pulled over to the sprocket bolt.
After looking at the wear pattern on your sprocket it appears you might have a similar situation?
Sorry to hear of that. I would check the main sprocket seat on the crank very carefully to make sure there isn't a blob of paint or something preventing it sitting flat. If it isnt easily remedied then we can warranty it for you.
:)
G.
Hi G, before I sound like I'm trolling or bashing Odyssey/G-Sport/Sunday I want to thank you for making and designing the best parts in BMX.
I know it's not the sprocket seat as I checked every mating part over before assembling. The cranks were then fitted through the bottom bracket and the spindle bolt tightened right down and during this the sprocket bolt was loosely fitted and could be turned by finger tip. The cranks were then spun and the disk was showing as straight (brand new Chase Hawk C-512). Once the sprocket bolt was tensioned down it was immediately noticeable how the disk had been pulled towards the crank arm. Once the sprocket bolt was backed off the disk returned to being straight.
I'm researching into brass shims as this stage to see what thickness would remedy the mentioned issue.
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OG Wombolts came with a thin washer for this very reason. I am running my keychain on said Wombolts with a new sprocket/rear wheel no issues. If I forget the washer, I have a similar issue.
I've heard this before but mine didn't include said thin washer (first batch, pre-ordered at empire at the time, still going strong). I've coke can shimmed it before but running a loose sprocket bolt is less of a hassle.
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OG Wombolts came with a thin washer for this very reason. I am running my keychain on said Wombolts with a new sprocket/rear wheel no issues. If I forget the washer, I have a similar issue.
I've heard this before but mine didn't include said thin washer (first batch, pre-ordered at empire at the time, still going strong). I've coke can shimmed it before but running a loose sprocket bolt is less of a hassle.
I think the spacey came included after that first batch. I think they may have sent them out to folks who requested one, or reported the issue v
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The sprocket bolt boss doesn't have to touch the sprocket you know gents
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Switching to splined drive sprockets was the best thing Ive done on my BMX for years, one less headache.
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UPDATE:
Problem solved. I swapped my 28t Fang for a 25t C512 and all is well. I prefer the taller gearing, but this runs much smoother and I was able to eliminate a half-link and move my wheel back a smidge which fixed the brake clearance problem I had.
I posted this at the beginning of the thread to save you all some scrolling.
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My Keychain does the exact same thing. It kind of wanders on top of the sprocket teeth where it "enters the sprocket", never had a drivetrain feel this bad :(. I really like the master link but so far it has not been good to me.
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Quick question
Ive only got a park CT7 chain breaker and the adapter does not fit. Can I just use the CT7 pin to rlove links?
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had similar issues, straightened up my chainline as much as possible and the problem lessened. the lack of sprocket clearance on modern frames makes this chain a bit of a headache
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yeah mine still sounds rough when im cranking hard. was thinking about going down to a 25t sprocket but then itd be a pain to make the chain longer should i decide i wanna go back up to a 28.
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Quick question
Ive only got a park CT7 chain breaker and the adapter does not fit. Can I just use the CT7 pin to rlove links?
https://youtu.be/ohcbhDwkt0s
:)
G.
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The CT7 worked okay. The vice technique with the brake washer probably works better though. Now I need a ratchet collar since my ti one semi to be grinding and may have Been the main issue with the previous driver. I ended up ordering from empire.
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I used the chain braker that odyssey made for it and it bent so I had to use my shadow one and the shadow breaker worked way better. Ps The keychain is the best chain I've ever used my drivetrain is so smooth.
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still wont get one..............not long enuff to run a 39-14 on my 20..
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I used the chain braker that odyssey made for it and it bent so I had to use my shadow one and the shadow breaker worked way better. Ps The keychain is the best chain I've ever used my drivetrain is so smooth.
Agreed! Mine has been completely smooth and headache free for the past year!!!
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I tried to break mine with a Pedros pro chain tool but it wouldn't fit, so I used a vice with a small socket. Worked great.
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FYI George I didn't get a chainbreaker adapter with my solid pin keychain. I received extra master pins instead
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FYI George I didn't get a chainbreaker adapter with my solid pin keychain. I received extra master pins instead
You dont need an adaptor for the solid pin version... Adaptor is only needed on the hollow version because otherwise the pin of the chainbreaker just slides inside the pin hole... ie.That's normal.
:)
G.
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oic
Edit: thought there was more to it than that
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I can't get mine smooth, and the only factor left is my Ratchet. Any ideas?
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Driver teeth worn in?
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I reckon that's probably it. I've replaced my chain every 3 months since before I ever got this particular driver 3 years ago, and a brand new 510 has no problems with it, but it's the only thing left
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mine was rough as balls at first too, but its better now. my wonky chainline due to my drive side hubguard didnt help either i dont reckon
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I can't get mine smooth, and the only factor left is my Ratchet. Any ideas?
Sorry if this seems obvious but have you tried a bit of lube? The oil that chain companies put on at the factory is more about preventing corrosion in the box than quiet smooth operation.
:)
G.
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Can't say I noticed the key chain ran rougher than my old collapse chain
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I can't get mine smooth, and the only factor left is my Ratchet. Any ideas?
Sorry if this seems obvious but have you tried a bit of lube? The oil that chain companies put on at the factory is more about preventing corrosion in the box than quiet smooth operation.
:)
G.
That was a very fair call. Half the reason I change chains so often is that I prefer the factory lube. Lube didn't help however (I already tried)
I did notice something though, unless I am tripping HARD; The Keychain seems longer than the 510 it replaced. I aligned/secured one end of both chains using the 510's pin in the allen key slot of the keychain, pulled them straight, and the keychain was longer by a small but visible amount. I mounted the 510 on the bike again and had to move the wheel forward to avoid the chain being too tight. To be clear, the keychain was slack at a wheel position where the 510 was not
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that would explain why monty mitchs was riding high in the middle of the contact area on the sprocket. pre stretched a little too far making the spacing between the rollers slightly too far. i run my chains slack as fuck and my sprockets pretty old now so didnt notice any issues personally but on a newer drive setup it could be an issue
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My hands are weak because the same thing happened again with my chain with the screw coming loose. Thought I tightened it pretty hard this time but I guess not. I have to order a new link so I can run my chain again. I love the chain though.
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Yeah I noticed when I was working on my bike that the grub screw had started working out. Hopefully I've tightened it enough now
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I can't get mine smooth, and the only factor left is my Ratchet. Any ideas?
It's the driver teeth profile, I dremeled mine a bit until the chain operated smoothly.
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So the screw pulled through again. My shadow chains as loose as they get never broke. Now I'm debating on just selling it or just wait to buy the stupid links. Definitely have the keychain woes.
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Superior Odyssey engineering strikes again!
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is it possible to add more links to the keychain with a chaintool or only using the special allen key links? this is my only real issue with the chain, although ive not broken it yet so its not been an issue
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That's how I got it to work again after I lost the first screw when i broke off 2 weeks ago. I had an extra pin and just linked it that way so I only has to use two of those. But I was lucky and happened to have that extra pin. I don't have anymore keychain parts so I have to buy a new link that has the replacement screws.
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is it possible to add more links to the keychain with a chaintool or only using the special allen key links? this is my only real issue with the chain, although ive not broken it yet so its not been an issue
How much longer does it need to be?
1 tooth = ~1/8"
1 half link = 2t = ~1/4"
1 full link = 4t = ~1/2"
If you are switching from 28t to 30t then all you need is a half link.
25 to 28, 2 half links (or one full link), but the wheel will move back in the dropouts by ~1/8"
25 to 30, one full link and one half link (or 3 half links lol), and wheel will move back by ~1/8"
Alternatively if you are going to a longer frame, adding a half link would move the wheel back ~1/4", a full link ~1/2"
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ah no i was just meaning if i do snap it being all street and grinds
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You will need the keychain pins. Nothing else will work. I'm keeping mine because I am a slave to the slam. I'm not sure if any other full link chain has the same length links as the keychain. Its why I'm not running the shitty chain I was using prior to getting the keychain.
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got a solid version on it's way to me
after reading a few things here I looked at getting a few spare masterlinks, 8 quid each? fuck off I've just spent 35
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My hollow pin Keychain is still going strong after a year and half (right when they first came out)
I use lots of pedal pressure and keep it TIGHT! And it is fully rusted out too, but runs smooth.
Twice I have had to retighten the pins on the master link but other than that it stays dialed.
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I've had my hollow pin keychain for almost a year with no issues.When I first installed it,I used thread locker on the pins for the master link and have yet to experience any of the problems some have had.
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Maybe its a non hollow issue. I still like it just a little annoyed that I have the same issue guess ill have to buy some thread locker next time.
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anyone sorted their noisey notchy horrible feeling chain?
my bsd halflink was like this, I ground down the inside tips of the chain plates so they didn't touch the driver, problem solved. can't figure out what the problem is with the keychain though as it's loads slimmer and doesn't rub.
to the eye it looks like the chain has a different pitch than the sprocket? I thought about comparing tooth profile but it looks like people with odyssey sprockets are having a problem as well
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anyone sorted their noisey notchy horrible feeling chain?
my bsd halflink was like this, I ground down the inside tips of the chain plates so they didn't touch the driver, problem solved. can't figure out what the problem is with the keychain though as it's loads slimmer and doesn't rub.
to the eye it looks like the chain has a different pitch than the sprocket? I thought about comparing tooth profile but it looks like people with odyssey sprockets are having a problem as well
Have you tried adding some more lube? Most of the people I have heard with that issue have found lube sorts it.
:)
G.
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anyone sorted their noisey notchy horrible feeling chain?
my bsd halflink was like this, I ground down the inside tips of the chain plates so they didn't touch the driver, problem solved. can't figure out what the problem is with the keychain though as it's loads slimmer and doesn't rub.
to the eye it looks like the chain has a different pitch than the sprocket? I thought about comparing tooth profile but it looks like people with odyssey sprockets are having a problem as well
Have you tried adding some more lube? Most of the people I have heard with that issue have found lube sorts it.
:)
G.
I may have to get some lube for mine as the chain squeakiness is the only noise my bike makes! But on the other hand, i'd like to think that the rust also keeps my cranks from moving as much...
Edit: still want to add that they keychain on a 16/9 drive train and TIGHT as you can get with lots of pedal pressure has been holding up FANTASTICALLY without a peep for 18 months now.
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anyone sorted their noisey notchy horrible feeling chain?
my bsd halflink was like this, I ground down the inside tips of the chain plates so they didn't touch the driver, problem solved. can't figure out what the problem is with the keychain though as it's loads slimmer and doesn't rub.
to the eye it looks like the chain has a different pitch than the sprocket? I thought about comparing tooth profile but it looks like people with odyssey sprockets are having a problem as well
i figured it was a bad chainline for me, but yeah quite a few people have noted the pitch is off. lots of lube and some time to wear in worked for me, its smoother now
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When I replace my current chain I'll see if my keychain is still longer than it
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straight chainline, loads of oil
lube made it a bit more quiet but it's near enough the same, can't see how it's gonna get better unless the chain stretches. will it even stretch being so thick? I don't wanna run my chain tight to find out and risk wearing my Q-lite driver out.
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Seems like a bummer. Any positives outweighing your guys headaches?
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hasnt broken yet
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chains still noisey as fuck, I've had to use the bmx a lot recently so plenty time to break it in. Oiled it up a few more times. then today one of the threaded pins sheared off in the plate. fuck this
feels like a really strong chain but not being able to fix it now on the spot when I need it is a load of shite
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When I replace my current chain I'll see if my keychain is still longer than it
So, I bought a new Bluebird in readiness to replace my 510. The Bluebird at the same # of links is shorter than the 510. No surprise there. But the well-used 510 is shorter than the barely-used KeyChain I tried to rock. I'd like to send it back but I don't want to waste anyone's expense if this not a known issue. George, you have looked after me for the last decade when it comes to the odd part issue. I will not persue any warranty claim as you already spent your likely margins from me just on sorting me out. But you are most welcome to this particular specimen if you want me to send it to you
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2 years now and mine is still fucken awesome
Had to apply a little loctite on the master link pin threads to keep them backing out over time but never once have had an issue with the chain coming apart or breaking
I'm running a 15/9 setup with the chain as tight as it will possibly go. It has been thoroughly rusted out, cleaned, and re-oiled over its life
Plus the ease of being to break it at the master link is 100% worth it if your wheel is slammed.
Makes getting your back wheel off oh-so-easy
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Ive had mine for a while, and I can still see gaps in between the chain and the bottom of the teeth, but its smooth as fuck so im not too worried about it. My master pin has backed itself out once or twice though.
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Mine has stretched a bit, but otherwise it's fine. No problem with the master link coming loose either.
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still wont get one..............not long enuff to run a 39-14 on my 20..
Didn't even think about this... how long is the stock hollow Keychain? I just ordered one but I'm running a long backend and big sprockets.
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I've been running mine since they came out. I run it tight and use lots of pedal pressure, and haven't noticed any of the noises or problems people have brought up.
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can't see how it's gonna get better unless the chain stretches. will it even stretch being so thick?
when we say a chain stretches, we're thinking that the chain plates have elongated from tension. however, the truth is that its the pins in the chain getting worn down over time from friction (insufficient lube, dirt and grit getting worked into the area) that makes the chain longer. Hence its why its important to lube/WD-40 flush the chain then properly re-lube afterwards.
WD-40 can be used to clean out the old lube along with grit/sand etc (if you dry it properly afterwards before lube), and it's important to work the new lube into the chain so it reaches the pins and rollers properly, instead of just having lube sit on the contact surface between chain/driver/sprocket.
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huh huh you said lube huh huh