Messages

286

The Bike Shop / Re: 22 inches

« on: May 07, 2014, 03:24:40 PM »

Be curious as to how that rides. Head angle is going to be a bit steeper, but otherwise probably pretty nice.


G.

287

The Bike Shop / Re: What did you do to your bike today? (v2)

« on: May 06, 2014, 09:24:16 AM »

Got it straight from George French. Email him.

What Email are you using, I've used the new gsport one and the g@gsport.co.uk email and he hasnt replied to either?

Any help would be very nice

It was a bank holiday weekend here and I had a lot to catch up on so left emails for a while. You should have a reply now.


G.

288

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 27, 2014, 07:10:25 AM »

On the topic of rawing parts...

How would I go about rawing the springfield brakes?

I assume the spring will need to come out, is that possible.

What else do I need to do before dipping these brakes in a load of chemicals? Or even if I should?

Spring unhooks easily.

Avoid getting stuff on the pivot area, it will get in the crack between brass bush and arm and spoil the fit.

The arms are die-cast like a pedal body so you may not be able to achieve a good finish without a lot of polishing.


G.

289

The Bike Shop / Re: 3D printed titanium parts

« on: April 22, 2014, 08:29:43 AM »

Integrated hydraulic lines would be slick, but a pig to setup and printed parts occasionally have issues with porosity that would be a killer...


G.

290

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 22, 2014, 08:24:11 AM »

You going to replace them? Same thing is going to happen.

Just take the pile into your local bearing stockists and have them measure it all up. The inner race is just defined by its dimensions, hopefully it will be off the shelf.


G.

Yeah I had thought of replacing them G thought it might be cheaper than buying a whole new driver.

Also thought it would be quicker to get this mess running again rather than waiting for the gcoaster or the odyssey one

I cant fault your logic on either of those. Bearings should be much cheaper than a whole driver (though I have no idea how much a new driver costs) assuming you can get everything out; and definitely quicker. Hopefully the Odyssey one Aaron is on will be out later this year but it is likely to be just in time for Xmas rather than summer.. and obviously that isnt a firm estimate just a wild guess..


G.

291

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 21, 2014, 07:08:38 PM »

Besides the 6802 bearings in the cult driver does anybody know the number for the roller bearing and cylinder thingo from a cult coaster driver?



The bit right In front of my driver?

You going to replace them? Same thing is going to happen.

Just take the pile into your local bearing stockists and have them measure it all up. The inner race is just defined by its dimensions, hopefully it will be off the shelf.


G.

292

The Bike Shop / Re: 3D printed titanium parts

« on: April 20, 2014, 07:25:21 AM »

^^^ That is all really cool, but... saddles? Seriously? I just dont get why they are so crazily expensive and why there would be any need to get more weight off them. Surely comfort and efficiency are going to be way more important in a seat? I can easily imagine a road rider losing 1 or 2 % of their effort to seat movement, or becoming fatigued earlier because of discomfort, surely that is the main design criteria?


G.

293

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 20, 2014, 06:50:13 AM »

grease anywhere metal contacts metal, threads included

Super stupid question now but what about where the stem clamps the steerer tube and where it clamps the bars?

Good point. NO don't grease the bar clamp. steerer is fine and aluminium seatpost in a steel frame is a must.


G.

294

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 17, 2014, 11:57:57 AM »

Im going to be building up a brand new bike for the first time in the next few days. remind me where I should be putting grease and loctite.

If it moves grease it, if it is a static thread (like pedals, wheel or stem bolts etc) then coppaslip or some other anti seize is better but grease or oil is better than nothing.

Loctite has no place on most bikes. If you need it on spokes or anything like that then you are doing it wrong. IMHO.


G.

295

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: April 12, 2014, 05:54:55 AM »

Not really a chain store as such but I think Cromwell tools have it and they have branches all over..


G.

296

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: March 24, 2014, 05:06:25 PM »

So I've noticed this is happening on both of my road bike tyres, some kind of thread keeps coming away round the entire tyre. They're Conti GP4000s. Is it a problem meaning they need replacing to avoid some kind of blow out? If so I'll be pissed off, cant have done more than 1000 miles on these!

Probably a stupid question but... you are sure that the brake isnt rubbing the tyre? Sometimes the brake can flex so much under heavy load that the pad moves up into the tyre but you cant see it in the stand...


G.

297

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: March 24, 2014, 07:22:05 AM »

So I've noticed this is happening on both of my road bike tyres, some kind of thread keeps coming away round the entire tyre. They're Conti GP4000s. Is it a problem meaning they need replacing to avoid some kind of blow out? If so I'll be pissed off, cant have done more than 1000 miles on these!

Personally I wouldn't be too worried about that. The main structural casing threads run sort of helically around the tyre, that looks more like a thread from the sort of "tape" they put over the bead which isnt really structural. Probably a good idea to pump the tyre up 30% above your normal running pressure as a test, but if it survives that OK you should be fine.
Ride it at your own risk though.

G. 

298

The Lounge / Re: What have you made?

« on: March 20, 2014, 04:56:53 PM »

Those shoes are amazing Artus! Great stuff..


G.

299

The Bike Shop / Re: Quick Questions

« on: March 07, 2014, 08:50:17 AM »

Dont bother emailing G. You already had the correct advice. Marmoset axle isnt going to fit. That hub has been discontinued about 8 years now at a guess. Any solution is likely to need to be a custom option or trawled up off ebay... Sorry.


G.

300

The Bike Shop / Re: 3D printed titanium parts

« on: February 09, 2014, 05:29:27 AM »

When did that ever happen?

RNC sprockets were priced pretty close to most aluminum ones, and they were much thicker than the more expensive profile ti stuff. 2004ish?
 I figure by the time sintering/powder is widespread enough for companies like that to have a hand in it, aluminum sprockets will be 80+ dollars, and I could see the ti stuff fitting into that range...

That was one manufacturer selling direct and possibly using ti plate that he had got cheap because it was recycled from another purpose (not that this was ever verified or a bad thing). Its not like Ti stuff in general has ever been a great price, though it was much cheaper than it is now I admit.


G.