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Odyssey Thunderbolt Woes

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JohnW:

--- Quote from: G on September 11, 2015, 05:20:58 AM ---
--- Quote from: JohnW on September 10, 2015, 09:16:09 PM ---The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....

--- End quote ---

Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...

:)
G.

--- End quote ---
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.

That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.

G:

--- Quote from: JohnW on September 11, 2015, 07:17:27 PM ---
--- Quote from: G on September 11, 2015, 05:20:58 AM ---
--- Quote from: JohnW on September 10, 2015, 09:16:09 PM ---The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....

--- End quote ---

Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...

:)
G.

--- End quote ---
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.

That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.

--- End quote ---

Surely seized torque is way higher than dry torque though surely...? So I'd rather go from "wet" to "a bit dry but still possible to get undone" (maybe a 30% increase?) than from "dry" to "well that's me fucked" (which is an increase of maybe 500%)?!?!


:)
G.

JohnW:

--- Quote from: G on September 14, 2015, 11:08:04 AM ---
--- Quote from: JohnW on September 11, 2015, 07:17:27 PM ---
--- Quote from: G on September 11, 2015, 05:20:58 AM ---
--- Quote from: JohnW on September 10, 2015, 09:16:09 PM ---The bunnyhop method always works on my Twombolts. I use grease instead of antiseize despite knowing antiseize is better just because grease comes off my hands/clothes better. Coming from working on cars, I fucking hate getting a surprise glob of antiseize on myself. Morons use it on lug nuts when you should never do that....

--- End quote ---

Why should you never do that? I have always used it on wheel bolts you know so you have a fighting chance of getting them undone when you need to by the side of the road in the pissing rain...

:)
G.

--- End quote ---
Wet torque is much higher than dry torque for one. If you can calculate to account for that then it isn't as bad of an idea, but from what I remember it's a LOT higher if the torque wrench is set to the same rating.

That and there's a slightly higher chance of them coming loose. I always clean the threads on my own vehicles and used closed lugnuts, plus they come off at least a couple times a year. I do usually put some grease on the center bore though, Toyota wheels love to get stuck on there.

--- End quote ---

Surely seized torque is way higher than dry torque though surely...? So I'd rather go from "wet" to "a bit dry but still possible to get undone" (maybe a 30% increase?) than from "dry" to "well that's me fucked" (which is an increase of maybe 500%)?!?!


:)
G.

--- End quote ---
In terms of torque required to remove it, yes. I'm talking about clamping load on the wheel and studs. From what I've read and been told, a lot more force is exerted when torquing if the studs are lubricated. This is in regards to crushing the seat on the wheel and over-clamping the studs. I do not know the exact numbers but it does put the load on the stud above the recommended range.

A little grease wouldn't be as bad in that regard as slathering a ton of anti-seize on like some people do. Since if it rusts up, less clamping force will be produced by the same amount of rotational torque - so slight lubrication is better than none in my opinion.

I've had no problem up here with harsh winters and road salt even with open ended lugs - IF the wheels are removed a few times a year like they should be. Brakes should be inspected at least once a year and with most peoples' driving, tires should be rotated at least a couple times. But when they're left on for 2-3 years (or less) with nothing touched, the rust gets excessive. Same with the assholes that ram the lug back onto the rusty threads with an impact gun...

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