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For those who know fasteners, machinists, and doers, A question.
Liveinthewoods:
I make this kind of stuff all the time. ( I'm a machinist and do high end architectural and artwork fabrication on the side.) Like G said it's hard to tell with scale but i've done something similar.
- Depending on the thickeness of the materials. You could dovetail the wood and metal. Rigidly mount the wood to the pipe then slide the metal pieces on for a clean look.
- I've done word standoffs and soldered studs to the back so they can thread into the wall. You could do something similar to the pipe.
- You could do a sleeve style. Instead of a single straight pipe use three different OD's. (Larger to smaller from bottom up) weld/solder/bolt studs to each OD of pipe and do each layer fastened to a piece that's ID matches the corresponding OD. Then simply stack the sections off of the base. (Hard to picture I know)
There are a ton of different ways you could do it. But it's hard to help without knowing your budget or accessibility to tools or machinery.
MilkyWilky:
So the scale is around 16" base diameter, 32" tall, or around 40x80cm. Capabilities will be sought out as needed, since the program is design, our workshop caters mostly to prototyping things and woodwork. It's for a fairly substantial business prize (~10 cheese) and will be used for at LEAST 10 years, so that amortizes nicely.
The model does have dovetailed wooden placards and a channel that would be cut in after the plates are rolled, but the issue is the slot is located at about 1/3 of the face, and not the center, so running a bolt behind it isn't ideal, because of the weight some people have indicated it should be connected at the center back, they want people to hoist the trophy proudly. Think it would be an issue? It would be a thin section if it was dovetailed too, the shortest bit I've seen has been 3/8 x 45*, out of a 1/4" sheet, with a good countersink, doesn't leave much.
What I'm thinking now is to braze on the the connectors with a threaded insert to the central shaft first, and tap the back of the plates with a reverse threading. If a machinist can knock up double sided forward and reverse threaded stud bolts with a knurled barrel or something in the middle, I'm thinking they could just screw together (both directions at once)
As for the bottom, If the waterjet has this level of multi-axis articulation (anybody?) it could cut this:
GVCT2 Base concentric rings cut by MilkyWilky, on Flickr
That would probably be a few less man hours than doing 10 on a lathe, and profiling this way you could just profile the aluminium block once. Also waterjet has a pretty good finish I understand. We are on a bit of a schedule.
--- Quote from: G on December 19, 2014, 07:23:29 AM ---
--- End quote ---
I like the idea of facing the base with the wood, might be a sneaky way to shave some weight too. Might leave it empty as well, but I really think the design is better with more wood. I also will keep the idea of doing the center in a few sections in mind, but would rather not have to worry about making that look all good n shit reassembled.
--- Quote from: Liveinthewoods on December 19, 2014, 05:35:53 PM ---
--- End quote ---
Since I've brazed before that's probably what I'd prefer to do, but things start to get pretty tight when the pieces are all on. Worry about working on the backside. Maybe I misunderstood.
Liveinthewoods:
--- Quote from: MilkyWilky on December 19, 2014, 07:14:54 PM ---So the scale is around 16" base diameter, 32" tall, or around 40x80cm. Capabilities will be sought out as needed, since the program is design, our workshop caters mostly to prototyping things and woodwork. It's for a fairly substantial business prize (~10 cheese) and will be used for at LEAST 10 years, so that amortizes nicely.
The model does have dovetailed wooden placards and a channel that would be cut in after the plates are rolled, but the issue is the slot is located at about 1/3 of the face, and not the center, so running a bolt behind it isn't ideal, because of the weight some people have indicated it should be connected at the center back, they want people to hoist the trophy proudly. Think it would be an issue? It would be a thin section if it was dovetailed too, the shortest bit I've seen has been 3/8 x 45*, out of a 1/4" sheet, with a good countersink, doesn't leave much.
What I'm thinking now is to braze on the the connectors with a threaded insert to the central shaft first, and tap the back of the plates with a reverse threading. If a machinist can knock up double sided forward and reverse threaded stud bolts with a knurled barrel or something in the middle, I'm thinking they could just screw together (both directions at once)
As for the bottom, If the waterjet has this level of multi-axis articulation (anybody?) it could cut this:
GVCT2 Base concentric rings cut by MilkyWilky, on Flickr
That would probably be a few less man hours than doing 10 on a lathe, and profiling this way you could just profile the aluminium block once. Also waterjet has a pretty good finish I understand. We are on a bit of a schedule.
--- Quote from: G on December 19, 2014, 07:23:29 AM ---
--- End quote ---
I like the idea of facing the base with the wood, might be a sneaky way to shave some weight too. Might leave it empty as well, but I really think the design is better with more wood. I also will keep the idea of doing the center in a few sections in mind, but would rather not have to worry about making that look all good n shit reassembled.
--- Quote from: Liveinthewoods on December 19, 2014, 05:35:53 PM ---
--- End quote ---
Since I've brazed before that's probably what I'd prefer to do, but things start to get pretty tight when the pieces are all on. Worry about working on the backside. Maybe I misunderstood.
--- End quote ---
If those are just 70 degree lines being cut out of a flat plate a waterjet can cut them as long as the machine is 5 Axis. But to get the 30 degree?? on that plate you'll either need to have it machined or surface or Creep Feed ground. To get the best finish i'd suggest surface ground (surface grinder can get you to a 32 finish.) If you weren't in Vancouver i'd give you a quote for the entire job.
MilkyWilky:
Thanks, Even just what you said about the surface grind gives me a good idea of what I'll tell the shops on Monday. Could the plate be profiled before the cutting? Obviously it must cut from a 3D format on a 5-ax, so to place the bottom plane of the base flat on the axis might it still interpret the non-regular curve?
MilkyWilky:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=v3otpi nice
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